It’s a a pleasure to taste something from New Zealand that provides a little relief from the lapping oceans of Sauvignon Blanc. This musky, stainless steel fermented Pinot Gris from the talented Natalie Christensen is appealingly dry in style, with notes of pear, lychee, rose petal and cherimoya, plenty of cool climate acidity and a subtle bitter twist.
2021 Tenuta Terrose Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany
( £16.95, 14%, The Co-op )Based on the Sangiovese grape, known locally at Prugnolo Gentile, with support from 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, this is a very well-priced red from one of Tuscany’s most famous DOCGs. Showing the grip and focus that come with the territory, it has plum, damson and tobacco leaf flavours, sinewy tannins, a waft of black tea and Mediterranean herbs and nicely understated older oak.
2022 Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo
( £14-17, 14%, Asda, Morrisons, Ocada, Tesco )Golden Reserve showcases the quality of four different sub-regions in the Primera Zona close to Mendoza – Agrelo, Las Compuertas, Perdriel and Vistalba – and is a well-priced, textbook expression of Argentina’s signature red grape. Fig, blackberry and summer pudding flavours are complemented by a twist of liquorice and a fresh, tangy, tapering finish. A red that makes me want to fire up the barbecue.
2024 Domaine Albert de Conti La Cuvée des Conti, Bergerac
( £12.50, 13%, The Wine Society )This great-value Bergerac Blanc is a fantastic example of what used to be known, a little patronisingly perhaps, as a French country wine. Combining Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and a splash of Muscadelle, it’s racy, tangy and refreshing, with top notes of parsley and wet stones, crunchy acidity and layers of lemongrass, gooseberry and pink grapefruit. A delicious spring white.
2023 Sogrape Grão Vasco Vinho Tinto, Dão
( £8.50, 13%, Tesco )Grão Vasco always reminds me of my late friend Salvador Guedes, who once ran Sogrape in Portugal, as we drank it together watching a third-division football match in the Dão region, where it comes from. Always a reliable quaffer – and a little bit more – it’s a smooth, full-flavoured blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro and 10% other local grapes with bramble, raspberry and summer pudding flavours and a nip of chewy tannin.
2022 Taste the Difference Barbera d'Asti, Piedmont
( £9.75, 14.5%, Sainsbury's )I often think of Barbera as a wine for Nebbiolo drinkers on a budget, as it has some of the tannic structure of its more famous Piedmontese partner, if not quite the same perfume and nobility. This excellent example comes from the excellent Araldica co-operative and is appealingly juicy and intense, with lovely plum, damson and blackberry fruit flavours, lots of racy acidity and a backbone of sinewy tannins.
2022 Wave Crest Mount Benson Shiraz, Limestone Coast
( £10, 14%, Majestic )Sourced from Australia’s evocatively named Limestone Coast, this is a wine for people who like a bit of zip and freshness in their Shiraz. Sappy, tangy and very lightly wooded, it has aromas of clove and Asian spices, a palate of plum and red berries, supple tannins and an appropriately chalky finish. A perfect pizza night red.
2021 Zulal Areni Red Classic, Vayots Dzor
( £16.50 until February 9; £19 thereafter, 14%, The Wine Society )The Wine Society is never afraid to buy wines from little-known countries, such as Armenia, which is one of the reasons I love their list. On offer until early next week, this is a welcome opportunity to try Areni Noir, thought to be one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. Sourced from high-altitude vineyards over 1,500 metres on volcanic soils, it’s an unoaked delight, showing impressive zip and freshness, racy plum, bramble and redcurrant fruit and textured, fine-grained tannins. Delicious.
2018 Taste the Difference Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta
( £16, 13.5%, Sainsbury's )A nice combination of the modern and traditional styles of Rioja, this blend of Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo was made for Sainsbury’s by the talented María Larrea of CVNE in Haro. Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, it’s a structured, focused, well-balanced red from a cooler, more Atlantic-influenced vintage, with flavours of blackberry, plum, liquorice and vanilla spice and enough tannic backbone to age further in bottle.
2024 Sons of Sugarland Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch
( £30, 14%, The Wine Society )Almost ridiculously good at the price, this comes from an unoffocial Grand Cru Syrah parcel on the Karibib estate in the Polkadraai Hills and is as good as a top northern Rhône red. Fermented with 100% whole bunches in concrete tanks, it has amazing depth and focus, aromas of clove and Negroni spices, layers of tapenade, oregano and blackberry, granite-derived freshness and a lingering, herbal finish. Effortless brilliance from Reenen Borman.
2024 Tesco Finest Greek Assyrtiko, Northern Florina
( £11.95, 12.5%, Tesco )Yields are notoriously small on the volcanic island of Santorini, the best place in the world to grow Assyrtiko, while the price of land is high because of tourism. So you can’t blame Tesco for looking to the north of Greece instead to source their Finest* bottling. As it happens, it’s very tasty as well as good value, with a hint of spritz, peach, citrus and nectarine flavours and the zesty acidity that’s part of the grape’s DNA.
2023 Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay, Margaret River
( £16, 13%, Sainsbury's )Aussie Chardonnays have undergone a transformation in the last decade or so, moving towards greater freshness and less obvious oak. This beauty comes from Vasse Felix, one of the leading producers in Margaret River, where Virginia Willcock is making some very impressive reds and whites. Tangy, bright and sappy, it has a sheen of subtle vanilla spice, flavours of lemon zest and cardamom and a racy, lingering finish.