92

2017 Feiler-Artinger Neuburger Trocken, Rust Am See, Burgenland

( £22.50, 13%, Tanners )

Neuburger is an extremely rare grape, even in its native Austria, with only 550 of the country’s 44,000 hectares, but Feiler-Artinger have made something of a specialty of the variety. This is wonderfully perfumed, with very understated oak, peachy, savoury, spicy flavours, plenty of weight and texture. It gives the impression of slight sweetness, but finishes dry, refreshing and well balanced. A wonderful curiosity.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-22Similar Wines: £20-£30, 90-94, Austria, White, Neuburger
88

2011 Tanners Douro Red, Douro Valley

( £7.95, 13%, Tanners )

Produced for Tanners by the impressive winemaking duo of João Portugal Ramos and José-Maria Soares Franco (who used to make Portugal’s most famous red, Barca Velha) this is an impressively well balanced Douro red at an attractive price, with subtle, spicy oak, good minerality and acidity and tarry, brambly fruit. Half bottles at £4.45. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Portugal, Red, Bonarda, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
89

2011 Tanners Mosel Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

( £10.95, 11%, Tanners )

The supplier for Tanners’ impressive own-label Mosel Riesling Kabinett is none other than the Max Ferd. Richter winery, which is something of a coup. The result is delicious. It’s at the lower end of the sweetness scale (at 27 grams per litre), showing 11% alcohol and a comparatviely “dry” finish. Youthful and zingy, with a touch of carbon dioxide and racy, palate-tingling acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Germany, White, Riesling
93

Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro Valley

( £18.99, 21.5%, Fortnum & Mason, Ocado, Tanners, Waitrose )

The received wisdom (at least round my gaff) is that 20-year-old Tawnies are better than the 10-year-old versions, but this wine challenges that. It will improve further in bottle, but it’s remarkable now, an intense, nutty, figgy fortified  with more tannin and concentration than commerical Tawnies at lower price points. In short, it’s worth the extra cash: a sweet, yet structured, wood-matured Port with impressive palate length.

Drinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, Portugal, Fortified, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
93

2008 Château Doisy-Daëne Blanc Sec, Bordeaux

( £19.95, 12.5%, Tanners )

Who says Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t age? When it’s made by Denis Dubourdieu, an academic and hands on winemaker who specialises in the variety, it can be spectacularly good. This is like a mini white Graves, with toasty, bottle-aged complexity, zesty acidity, tangy grapefruit-like flaovurs and a smoky undertone. The wine is delicious now but has more ageing potential if previous releases are a guide. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Sauvignon Blanc
93

2008 Kumeu River Coddington Chardonnay, Auckland

( £19.92, 13%, Tanners )

If you’re not aware of the remarkable Chardonnays that Michael Brajkovich is producing north of Auckland, you’re missing out on some of the New World’s best white wines. This is very Burgundian indeed with fresh, mineral, butter and citrus fruit flavours, delicate oak and a long, harmonious finish. Great now but will age for at least another five years. 

Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay