Looking Back
by Tim Atkin
Twice a year, I help to organise a wine dinner for a group of friends. For the most recent one, in Paris, my job was to bring the sweet wines...
Country: Spain
2025 Luna Beberide Mencía, Bierzo
( £11.50, 13%, The Wine Society )Bierzo is arguably the Spanish region that is best qualified to call itself the “Burgundy of Spain”, assuming it feels the need to do so. The vineyards are often tiny, the wines produced in small quantities, the approach appealingly artisanal. The biggest difference is the price points, which is why I love wines like this unwooded Mencía from Luna Beberida. Crunchy, juicy and tangy, it has some stemmy grip, wonderful energy and focus, stony intensity and a core of pomegranate, plum and goji berry fruit. Lip-smackingly delicious.
Wine’s Third Wave
by Andy Neather
We may surmise that the Iran war’s impact on the wine trade is unlikely to be uppermost in the minds of Tehran or Dubai residents. Nevertheless, this economic shock will...
2018 Taste the Difference Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta
( £16, 13.5%, Sainsbury's )A nice combination of the modern and traditional styles of Rioja, this blend of Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo was made for Sainsbury’s by the talented María Larrea of CVNE in Haro. Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, it’s a structured, focused, well-balanced red from a cooler, more Atlantic-influenced vintage, with flavours of blackberry, plum, liquorice and vanilla spice and enough tannic backbone to age further in bottle.
2023 Dominio Basconcillos Finca de Altura, Ribera del Duero
( £20, 15%, Tanners )Estates in Ribera del Duero don’t get much higher than Dominio Basconcillos’ isolated, spectacularly situated vineyards at 960 metres in Gumiel de Izán. Considered marginal just 20 years ago, they have come into their own with climate change. Made by the talented Ángel Calleja, this is a stand-alone Tempranillo that carries its 15% alcohol lightly, thanks to the freshness that comes with the territory. Stylishly wooded in French oak, it has lovely texture and acidity, a chalky undertone and a core of bramble and blackberry fruit.
Transformations
by Margaret Rand
I arrived in Puligny, at my friend Mary’s house, the other weekend, and she handed me a flûte salée from her favourite boulangerie in Beaune. It was celestial: an apotheosis...
Spanish Strategies
by Andy Neather
The setting was magical, steep terraces plunging to the River Miño below. But José Moure was hard-headed about the challenges: “We’re in crisis – the big buyers bought very few...
2023 Piedra Fluida Majec, Tenerife
( £14.95, 13%, The Wine Society )I’ve recommneded a white from Piedra Fluida in the past, but I also wanted to let you know about this red, now that it’s available in the UK. Made from a more or less equal co-fermentation of white Listán Blanco (aka Palomino) and the local Listán Negro grape, it’s an intriguing tinto from the volcanic soils of Tenerife, with lots of old vine concentration, spicy red berry flavours, a waft of wild mountain herbs and savoury, fine-grained tannins.
Credible Signals
by Sara Danese
To sell wine, the wine being of good quality is not essential. In fact, selling mediocre wine is easy; selling bad wine is easier still. Not easy in the sense...
2023 A Pie de Tierra Fuerza Bruta Vino de Paraje, Valle del Alberche, Sierra de Gredos
( £27.60, 13%, Parched Online, The Sourcing Table )So pale it could almost be a rosado, this is a refined, ethereal Garnacha from vines planted on granite soils at 500 metres. Fermented with stems for texture and perfume, it’s a subtle, layered, haunting red from young winemakers Aitor Paul and David Villamiel, with aromas of ginger, Turkish Delight and forest floor, graceful, caressing tannins and a savoury finish of wild strawberry and clove.
Where Next For Appellations?
by Andy Neather
Massive hailstones ravaged Chablis last year and fires consumed thousands of hectares in Galicia last month: climate change is accelerating. Grape-growing conditions in classic regions simply aren’t the same as...
The Rewards of Patience
by Tim Atkin
If anything teaches you patience, humility and a degree of circumspection, it’s making wine. However much of a hurry you may be in, a vineyard takes three years to produce...