I don’t drink that much wine from the Napa Valley, partly because I can generally find better value elsewhere, but this Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc from Truchard Vineyards really impressed me at the recent Marks & Spencer tasting. Nicely restrained in alcohol, it’s a subtly wooded, medium-bodied delight with fine, granular tannins, layers of cedarwood, cassis and fresh herbs and a waft of sweet oak spices.
Food Match: Game
2024 Sangenis I Vaque Garbinada, Priorat
( £17, 14.5%, The Wine Society )Wines from Priorat can be pricey by Spanish standards, so this is an impressive find by Wine Society buyer, Harriet Kinninmonth. Farmed organically and entirely unwooded, it’s a reminder of how well the Garnacha and Cariñena grapes can combine close to the Mediterranean. Aromas of hot stones, rosemary and thyme segue into a palate of plum and summer berries, framed by savoury tannins and supporting acidity. Delicious now but will develop further complexity in bottle.
2024 Co-op Irresistible Douro, Douro Valley
( £8.50, 13%, The Co-op )Portugal’s Douro Valley is still more famous for fortified than table wines, thanks to Port, but it’s much more diverse than most people imagine. This is an equal blend of Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca with 10% Touriga Nacional that’s all about fruit rather than oak, revealing layers of blackberry and fig complemented by top notes of violet and mountain herbs.
2021 Palazzo Maffei Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore, Veneto
( £15.95, 14.5%, The Co-operative )A Veneto red that tastes as good as it looks, this is a stylish, modern blend of Corvina, 30% Corvinone and 10% Rondinella, with plenty of acidity, a touch of appealing sweetness from the ripasso technique, red cherry, plum and pomegranate flavours, savoury, tea leaf-like tannins and a fresh, balanced, persistent finish.
2023 Clos de Luz Agras País, Cachapoal Valley
( £13.95, 12.5%, The Wine Society )Agras uses a field blend of grapes from 100-year-old vines in the Cachapoal Valley, combining País and 10% Moscatel de Alejandría. Fermented with 20% whole bunches, it’s refreshingly low in alcohol at 12.5%, with jasmine and rose petal aromas, impressive underlying grip and concentration and a palate of redcurrant, cranberry and rooibos tea.
2024 Domaine Sérol Éclat de Granite, Côte Roannaise
( £15.50, 12%, The Wine Society )It’s not from Beaujolais, the subject of my main piece this week, but it is made from Gamay (albeit the local Gamay Saint Romain clone). This is a stunning red from the little-known Loire Valley appellation of Côte Roannaise that saw me place an order within five minutes of tasting it at the Wine Society this week. Fermented and aged in concrete tanks with 20% whole bunches and not an oak barrel in sight, it’s tangy, refreshing and lightly grassy, with layers of plum, redcurrant and white pepper, granular tannins and a racy, lingering finish. One of the best-value reds I’ve had so far this year.
2024 Villard Le Pinot Noir Grand Vin, Casablanca Valley
( £19, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Given the price of red Burgundy these days, this Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir from Thierry and Charlie Villard is a steal. Made with a 60/40 combination of the Valdivieso and 115 clones, it’s a graceful, scented, refined expression of the grape with succulent raspberry and goji berry flavours and a bright, energetic finish.
2021 Tenuta Terrose Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany
( £16.95, 14%, The Co-op )Based on the Sangiovese grape, known locally at Prugnolo Gentile, with support from 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, this is a very well-priced red from one of Tuscany’s most famous DOCGs. Showing the grip and focus that come with the territory, it has plum, damson and tobacco leaf flavours, sinewy tannins, a waft of black tea and Mediterranean herbs and nicely understated older oak.
2024 Sons of Sugarland Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch
( £30, 14%, The Wine Society )Almost ridiculously good at the price, this comes from an unoffocial Grand Cru Syrah parcel on the Karibib estate in the Polkadraai Hills and is as good as a top northern Rhône red. Fermented with 100% whole bunches in concrete tanks, it has amazing depth and focus, aromas of clove and Negroni spices, layers of tapenade, oregano and blackberry, granite-derived freshness and a lingering, herbal finish. Effortless brilliance from Reenen Borman.
2023 Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir, Martinborough
( £21.25, 13%, Majestic )Named after one of Martinborough’s pioneers, John Martin, this is a wonderfully bright, tangy, graceful Pinot Noir from one of New Zealand’s best North Island regions. Fresh, tangy and focused, with nicely understated oak, it has a beguiling garnet hue, goji berry and wild strawberry fruit and a top note of crushed rose petal. Beautifully balanced.
2023 Zuccardi Polígonos Paraje Altamira Malbec, Uco Valley
( £26, 14%, Sainsbury's )Part of a very strong range under Zuccardi’s Polígonos brand, this comes from cooler, south-facing vines at 1,100 metres in Paraje Altamira, one of the finest sun-regions of Argentina’s high-altitude Uco Valley. Markedly influenced by its limestone soils, it luxuriates in violet and wet stone aromas, lovely zip and acidity, chalky minerality and intense plum, damson and blackberry fruit flavours.
2023 Taste the Difference Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône Valley
( £11.50, 14.5%, Sainsbury's )I always tend to drink more southern Rhône reds at this time of year. This one caught my eye at the recent Sainsbury’s press tasting, partly because it was every bit as good as the supermarket’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which retails at nearly twice the price. Syrah based – unusual in this part of France – with 22% Grenache and 4% Carignan – it has aromas of tapenade and mountain herbs, a palate of mulberry and blackberry and impressive texture, grip and palate weight. Perfect with a winter stew.