92

2018 Tabalí Barranco Río Hurtado Viognier, Limarí Valley

( £14.50, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

I wouldn’t normally recommend a Viognier with a few years of bottle age – it’s a grape best consumed in its blossomy, intensely perfumed youth – but this unoaked example comes from a very special site in the Chilean Andes, located at 1,600 metres, and has improved over the last 12 months. There are still plenty of creamy ginger spice and apricot flavours on offer, but they’re balanced by stony freshness and minerality. Delicious.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-24Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Chile, White, Viognier
92

2020 La Madone Gamay Sur Volcan, Côtes du Forez, Massif Central

( £12.95, 13%, The Wine Society )

I wish I’d known about someone like Gilles Bonnefoy when I lived in Clermont-Ferrand back in the 1980s, when good local wines were rare in the Massif Central. This is a wonderfully crunchy, sappy summer red grown on the volcanic soils that are a feature of the region. Made from Gamay, it’s a stony, unwooded delight, with plum and wild strawberry fruit and a satisfying, mineral-edged core.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-26Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, France, Gamay
93

2020 Tesco Finest Pouilly-Fumé, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire Valley

( £13, 13%, Tesco )

Sauvignon Blanc can be a one-glass wine, but this is an example that makes you want to share and finish the bottle. Made for Tesco by long-term supplier Fournier Père & Fils, it’s a wonderfully perfumed, pithy, stony Loire white with notes of green herbs, elderflower and lime, zesty acidity and a chalky, almost salty tang. The best sub-£15 Sauvignon on the high street right now.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-25Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, France, White, Sauvignon Blanc
93

2019 Altolandon Mil Historias Bobal Organic Wine, Manchuela

( £10.99-£12.95, 14%, Bush Vines, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Hay Wines, Kwoff, other stockists from Alliance Wine )

Here’s a paradox: Bobal is Spain’s second most planted red grape, but doesn’t have much of an image outside the country. Maybe that’s starting to change, thanks to wines like this one from the talented Roselia Molina in the high-altitude Manchuela appellation, where she makes a range of low-intervention reds and whites from organically farmed vineyards at 1,100 metres. Wonderfully peppery, juicy and fresh with amazing vibrancy, plum, wild strawberry and black cherry fruit and a long, zingy finish. Stunning value at around £12.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-26Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Spain, Red, Bobal
91

2019 Château Barthès Rosé, Bandol

( £13, 13.5%, The Co-op )

Bandol rosé isn’t as hip as the pinks from the nearby Côtes de Provence appellation, but it can be every bit as good and often cheaper than celebrity-owned or endorsed brands. This pale, co-fermented cuvée of Grenache with 30% each of Mourvèdre and Cinsault from Philippe Barthès has lovely texture and weight, with a little more grip than many Provençal rosés, juicy watermelon and raspberry fruit and a faint nip of tannin. Boy, would I like to be drinking this in the south of France right now.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-23Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, France, Rose, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre
92

2019 Earth's End Pinot Noir, Central Otago

( £15, 14%, Marks & Spencer )

With its distinctive Haka label, Earth’s End Pinot Noir has long been one of the stand out wines in the Marks & Spencer range and is on coruscating form right now. Made by the talented Duncan Forsyth, a man whose flamboyant suits match the brilliance of his wines, this is sappy, savoury and focused, with wild strawberry and red cherry fruit, some underlying stony grip and a whisper of wood spices.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-27Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Red, Pinot Noir
91

2019 Domaine Jean-François Quénard Mondeuse Terres Rouges, Vin de Savoie

( £13.50, 12%, The Wine Society )

Light-bodied Alpine reds are some of my favourite wines: bright, tangy and intense with tremendous perfume and vitality. This pure Mondeuse from Jean-François Quénard is a case in point. Fermented and aged in a combination of stainless steel and concrete eggs, it’s pithy, zesty and lip-smackingly fresh, all violet, rose petal and white pepper aromas, intense bramble and raspberry fruit, tangy acidity and more underlying tannin and structure than you expect.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-26Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, France, Red, Mondeuse
92

2016 Ktima Foundi Xinomavro, Ramnista, Naoussa

( £14.95, 13%, The Wine Society )

Calling all Burgundy and Barolo drinkers in search of a bargain! Greek Xinomavro has become one of my go-to wine styles over the last year and this is a delicious example of its charms from a traditional producer. Benefiting from a few years in bottle before release, it’s pale, scented and enticing, with aromas of rose petal and rosemary, savoury red cherry and tobacco leaf flavours, sinewy tannins, understated wood and thrilling freshness and minerality.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-28Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Greece, Red, Xinomavro
90

2019 Bosman Nero, Wellington

( £12, 13%, Sainsbury's )

Bosman Family Vineyards have always been great innovators, so it’s no surprise that they’ve pioneered the planting of Sicily’s Nero d’Avola grape in the Cape. It’s also no surprise that a variety that does so well in Italy has adapted to the heat of Wellington too. This is medium ruby in colour, with sweet spices on the nose, subtle oak and flavours of bramble, raspberry and red cherry. The tannins are savoury and fine, the acidity brisk and refreshing. And the wine even has its own soundtrack on Spotify.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-24Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, South Africa, Red, Nero d'Avola
91

2017 Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva, Maipo Valley

( £14, 13.5%, Tesco )

Carmen is among the oldest wineries in Chile, but has one of the most dynamic young winemakers in Emily Faulconer. This is a classic Maipo Valley Cabernet Sauvignon that has benefited from a few years in bottle but will age and develop for a while yet. Serious, structured and intense, it has appealing notes of bramble, eucalyptus and blackcurrant leaf, sinewy, savoury tannins, deftly handled oak and impressive freshness and acidity for a hot vintage.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-25Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Chile, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon
90

2019 Artuke Rioja, Rioja

( £12.50; £10.95 by the case, 13.5%, Lea & Sandeman )

Always one of Rioja’s great bargains, this wonderfully juicy cuvée of Tempranillo and 5% Viura from brothers Arturo and Kike de Miguel is a classic carbonic maceration style that dates back to the 19th century and was popularised by the so-called “cosecheros”. Showing masses of perfume, it’s a tangy, crunchy, cement-fermented delight that combines perfume with vibrant summer berry fruit. Unwooded Rioja at its individual best.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-24Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Spain, Red, Tempranillo, Viura
92

2017 Château des Estanilles Vallongue, Faugères

( £14.95, 14%, Yapp Brothers )

Faugères is one of the Languedoc’s great secrets, a small appellation that deserves to be much better known. Julien Seydoux makes this superb organic red from a blend of Syrah with 35% Grenache, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre, ageing the result in large wooden foudres and stainless steel tanks. Named after a local stream, it’s appeallingly subtle, floral and refined, with notes of pine and lavender, sweet bramble and red berry fruit, sinewy tannins and a long, mineral-edged finish. Perfect winter drinking.

BuyDrinking window: 2021-27Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, France, Red, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah