91

2013 Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner, Rapaura, Marlborough

( £16.99, 13%, Bottle Apostle, Cambridge Wine Merchants )

Grüner Veltliner is rare enough in New Zealand, but one with six years of bottle age is unique. But what a brilliant wine this is. Part of Matt Thomson and Sophie Parker-Thomson’s off-the-wall series of small volume Kiwi whites and reds, this wouldn’t look out of place in a line up of top Austrian examples of the grape. Partially barrel fermented in larger French oak barrels, it’s bright, focused and remarkably youthful, with notes of bay leaf and white pepper, crunchy minerality and pear and citrus fruit.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-22Similar Wines: £15-20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Grüner Veltliner
96

2017 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay, Nelson

( £44.99, 13.5%, New Zealand House of Wine )

Consistently among New Zealand’s best Chardonnays and a wine that ages extremely well under screwcap, this wild-yeast fermented white hails from the Home and Rosie’s Blocks at Neudorf’s vineyards in Upper Moutere. Fresh, elegant and savoury, it has deftly interwoven (12% new) French oak, flavours of citrus and cinnamon, impressive focus and a tangy, mineral-edged core. A very classy, well-judged white.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-27Similar Wines: £40-50, 95-100, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
93

2015 Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay, Marlborough

( £21, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

Not as well known as the Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc releases, but every bit as good in my opinion, this is frequently among my favourite South Island Chardonnays. Toasty, savoury and enticing, it has citrus and beeswax notes supported by fresh, palate cleasning acidity and a nutty finish. Just starting to develop bottle-aged complexity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2018-24Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
91

2017 Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

( £14.50, 12.5% )

Classic modern, dry Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from two of the masters of the region, James Healy and Ivan Sutherland, showing notes of lemon grass, passion fruit and fresh sweat (more appealing than it sounds, honest). Nettley, zingy acidity, plenty of focus and a long, refreshing finish. My kind of Kiwi white. 

BuyDrinking window: 2018-21Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Sauvignon Blanc
94

2015 Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Section 94, Marlborough

( £17-22, 13.5% )

A wine that’s consistently a match for all but the very best (and much more expensive) wines of Pessac-Léognan, this deftly oaked Marlborough Sauvignon ages brilliantly too. Leesy, rich yet beautifully balanced, it combines flavours of vanilla spice, gooseberry fool, lanolin and vivid acidity. One of the region’s very best expressions of the grape. 

BuyDrinking window: 2018-24Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Sauvignon Blanc

The perfect 8/10 vintage

by Matt Walls
Last week I opened a bottle of 2010 Bordeaux. Nothing fancy – Château La Tour de By, a reliable Cru Bourgeois from the Médoc. Nope; still not ready. It hardly...
92

2016 Dog Point Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

( £13.50, 13%, The Wine Society )

There’s always something of a rush to list and sell the new vintage of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, so it’s good to see a winery (and a retailer in the shape of the Wine Society) that takes a more relaxed approach to vintages, selling wines with a bit of bottle age. Tangy, savoury and dry, this is a complex, flinty, well balanced white with no oak, allowing the quince, greengage and gooseberry fruit to shine.

BuyDrinking window: 2017-20Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Sauvignon Blanc
93

2012 Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Moutere, Nelson

( £29, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

Pinots from the clays of Moutere always remind me of the wines of Pommard in Burgundy. They are rich, bold, even slightly sturdy wines that are textured, a little gruff even, and extremely impressive. Structured and concentrated, this is savouery, spicy and intense, with notes of incense and sweet summer berries, supported by tannins. 

BuyDrinking window: 2017-22Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, New Zealand, Red, Pinot Noir
92

2015 Neudorf Twenty Five Rows Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

( £21, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

Neudorf makes some of the most characterful Chardonnays in New Zealand. This is their unoaked, Kiwi-meets-Chablis style that sess no oak, but seven months on lees to pick up some extra texture and weight. Supple and fruity, with notes of white peach and pear, taut acidity and a long, satisfying finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2017-20Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
94

2015 Neudorf, Moutere Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

( £35, 14%, Contact the winery for details )

Consistently one of New Zealand’s best Chardonnays, this is a rich, leesy, barrel-fermented style that treads the line (successfully, I might add) between opulence and pithy freshness. Citrus, oatmeal and honeyed notes are complemented by subtle vanilla sweetness and lovely, understated concentration.

BuyDrinking window: 2017-22Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay