Something to buy now and drink when we shift into autumn perhaps, although I never need an excuse to drink a red from Apostolos Thymiopoulos at any time of the year. This is an intense, fruit-packed Xinomavro from Naoussa, the grape’s Greek heartland, with the spine of tannin that’s a feature of the variety, some clove spice from 25% whole- bunch fermentation, flavours of damson, redcurrant and black cherry and a dusting of Mediterranean herbs.
Price Range: £15-20
2023 Domaine de la Croisée Comtoise Poulsard, Côtes du Jura
( £17, 13%, The Wine Society )Part of the joy of the Wine Society’s range is that they champion wines from small, young producers like Louis Bordel and Chloe Nardin in the Jura. This the perfect summer red, sourced from two contrasting vineyards with different aspects. Sappy, juicy and refreshing, it has lovely goji berry and pomegranate flavours, subtle, savoury tannins and a wonderful sense of energy and freshness. The kind of thing I want to order by the case.
2024 G de Château Guiraud, Bordeaux
( £18, 12.5%, The Co-op )Some stores may still be on the 2023, but make sure you track down the 2024 because it’s a textbook white Bordeaux at a very reasonable price. Combining Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon, it’s a fresh, tangy, herbal dry white from Château Guiraud, who also make one of my favourite Sauternes, with subtle toasty oak, flavours of citrus and pink grapefruit and lovely mid-palate texture.
2024 Domaine Sérol Éclat de Granite, Côte Roannaise
( £15.50, 12%, The Wine Society )It’s not from Beaujolais, the subject of my main piece this week, but it is made from Gamay (albeit the local Gamay Saint Romain clone). This is a stunning red from the little-known Loire Valley appellation of Côte Roannaise that saw me place an order within five minutes of tasting it at the Wine Society this week. Fermented and aged in concrete tanks with 20% whole bunches and not an oak barrel in sight, it’s tangy, refreshing and lightly grassy, with layers of plum, redcurrant and white pepper, granular tannins and a racy, lingering finish. One of the best-value reds I’ve had so far this year.
2023 Domaine Jones Les Parcelles, Languedoc
( From £16.50, 13%, Booths, Loki Wines )English winemaker Katie Jones is making some of the most characterful wines in the south of France at the moment, curating small parcels of old vines to produce really special whites and reds. This assemblage comes from five sites around her home village of Tuchan in the Aude, combining Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Muscat. Tangy, herbal and garrigue scented, it has layers of quince, pear and lemon zest, a hint of oak and an appealing bitter twist.
2024 Villard Le Pinot Noir Grand Vin, Casablanca Valley
( £19, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Given the price of red Burgundy these days, this Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir from Thierry and Charlie Villard is a steal. Made with a 60/40 combination of the Valdivieso and 115 clones, it’s a graceful, scented, refined expression of the grape with succulent raspberry and goji berry flavours and a bright, energetic finish.
2021 Tenuta Terrose Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany
( £16.95, 14%, The Co-op )Based on the Sangiovese grape, known locally at Prugnolo Gentile, with support from 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, this is a very well-priced red from one of Tuscany’s most famous DOCGs. Showing the grip and focus that come with the territory, it has plum, damson and tobacco leaf flavours, sinewy tannins, a waft of black tea and Mediterranean herbs and nicely understated older oak.
2021 Zulal Areni Red Classic, Vayots Dzor
( £16.50 until February 9; £19 thereafter, 14%, The Wine Society )The Wine Society is never afraid to buy wines from little-known countries, such as Armenia, which is one of the reasons I love their list. On offer until early next week, this is a welcome opportunity to try Areni Noir, thought to be one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. Sourced from high-altitude vineyards over 1,500 metres on volcanic soils, it’s an unoaked delight, showing impressive zip and freshness, racy plum, bramble and redcurrant fruit and textured, fine-grained tannins. Delicious.
2018 Taste the Difference Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta
( £16, 13.5%, Sainsbury's )A nice combination of the modern and traditional styles of Rioja, this blend of Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo was made for Sainsbury’s by the talented María Larrea of CVNE in Haro. Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, it’s a structured, focused, well-balanced red from a cooler, more Atlantic-influenced vintage, with flavours of blackberry, plum, liquorice and vanilla spice and enough tannic backbone to age further in bottle.
2023 Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay, Margaret River
( £16, 13%, Sainsbury's )Aussie Chardonnays have undergone a transformation in the last decade or so, moving towards greater freshness and less obvious oak. This beauty comes from Vasse Felix, one of the leading producers in Margaret River, where Virginia Willcock is making some very impressive reds and whites. Tangy, bright and sappy, it has a sheen of subtle vanilla spice, flavours of lemon zest and cardamom and a racy, lingering finish.
2020 The Society's Exhibition Côtes du Jura, Jura
( £19.50, 13.5%, The Wine Society )It’s rare to find a Jura white of this quality under £20, which makes this equal blend of Savagnin and Chardonnay is the ideal introduction to a unique style made close to France’s border with Switzerland. Best drunk with the local Comté cheese, although it’s heavenly with onion soup or a plate of wild mushrooms, it’s textured, racy and appealingly salty, reflecting the three years it spent “sous voile” (under a film of the flor yeast). Not unlike an unfortified Sherry, albeit with Alpine acidity, it reveals layers of citrus, almond and liquorice and a tapering finish.
2022 Azienda Agricola Cortese Vanedda Bianco, Terre Siciliane IGP, Sicily
( £18.95, 13.5%, Aitken Wines, Hoult's, Love Wine, Magnum Wine, Market Hall Wines, ND John, Reserve Wines, Slurp, Yorkshire Vintners )One of the most exciting whites I’ve tasted from Sicily in ages, this is a finely judged, organically farmed cuvée of the local grapes, Catarratto and Grillo. Fermented on skins for a couple of days – which gives the wine extra weight and backbone – before ageing in large barrels called botti in Italian, it’s a rich, tangy, nutty delight, with loads of racy acidity, citrus, nectarine and pink grapefruit flavours and a waft of juniper and wild thyme.