93

2015 Domaine Saint Amant, Beaumes-de-Venise Grangeneuve, Rhône Valley

( £15.99, 14.5%, Waitrose )

Beaumes de Venise is still more famous for its fortified Muscats, but canny buyers have always known that if you pick the right wine, the appellation can offer red wines that rival top Châteauneuf-du-Pape at half the price or less. This cuvée of Grenache with 30% Syrah and 10% each of Carignan and Viognier comes from a 50-year-old parcel at 500 metres above the village of Suzette and is wonderfully dense, rich and savoury, showing considerable concentration and weight, flavours of garrigue, black plum and violet and a full-bodied finish. It’s certainly drinkable now, but will reward further cellaring.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-27Similar Wines: £10-£20, 90-94, France, Red, Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Viognier

Floral testimony

by Matt Walls
In the car park on my street there is a rose bush. Every so often when walking past I pause to cup one of the red flowers in my hand,...

New Zealand’s hothouse Syrah

by Matt Walls
In 1984, a man called Dr Alan Limmer was doing some work at a government viticultural research station on North Island, New Zealand. One day he heard it was about...
91

2015 Domaine Brunet Les Travers, Cairanne, Rhône Valley

( £10-£15, 13%, Vinconnexion )

Cairanne whites are something of a rarity – even more so than in nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape – but when they are as impressive as this blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne, you wonder why. Textured, complex and oatmealy, this shows deftly interwoven oak, subtle pear and apricot fruit and a mineral flourish. 

Drinking window: NowSimilar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier
95

2012 Laurent Miquel Vérité Viognier, Pays d'Oc

( £14.99, 13.5%, Majestic )

Laurent Miquel has long been the leading Viognier producer in the south of France, making wines that are as good as most Condrieu but at less than half the price. This vintage is his best yet in my view, a rich, spicy, sumptuous, yet well balanced white, with sweet vanilla oak, just the right amount of acidity to temper the concentration of the wine and hedonistic flavours of apricot, fresh cream and fresh ginger. Available on line initially by the half case, so hurry.  

BuyDrinking window: 2014-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Viognier
90

2011 Canyon Park, The Guardians MRV, Danube Plain

( £14.95, 13%, The Wine Society )

With a name like Canyon Park, let alone a price tag close to £15, the last place you’d expect this blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier to come from is Bulgaria, but the country that gave us impossibly cheap Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1980s is emerging from the Eastern European doldrums at last. This is smoky, savoury and perfumed, with aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle, ripe, pear and apricot flavours and subtle oak integration. A sign of very good things to come? 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Bulgaria, White, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier

Chapoutier’s class of 2013

by Matt Walls
If the majority of the press surrounding the 2013 vintage in Bordeaux is to be believed, most en primeur samples should have been gathered up, put in a sack and...
92

2010 Catapult Shiraz, McLaren Vale

( £13.99 down to £10.50, 14.5%, Marks & Spencer )

Wirra Wirra makes some of my favourite South Australian reds, wines that are ripe and full of fruit, but not ponderous or over-oaked. This is an Aussie take on a Côte Rôtie with 2% Viognier adding extra fragrance to the Shiraz. Dense and sweet, with plush tannins, good texture, well-judged oak and a savoury note. Ripe and well balanced with sweet bramble and blackberry fruit. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Australia, Red, Syrah/Shiraz, Viognier
89

2009 The Liberator (This Bird Has Flown), Swartland

( £11.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )

This Cape blend of Chenin, Viognier, Chardonnay and Clairetter Blanche won’t be to everyone’s taste – it’s got some age to it and a developed, Sherry-like not – but I salute its ambiiton and left field flavours. Rich and honeyed, with some vanilla and nutmeg spice, fresh acidity and bags of concentration. Appealingly funky. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, South Africa, White, Bical, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Clairette, Viognier
86

2011 The Curator, The Swartland

( £6.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

By the hot house standards of the Swartland, this is a light and comparatively elegant red blend of mostly Shiraz with some Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Viognier. It’s a scented, unoaked style with some pepper spice, raspberry and red cherry fruit and refreshing acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, South Africa, Red, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah/Shiraz, Bourboulenc, Viognier