Golden Reserve showcases the quality of four different sub-regions in the Primera Zona close to Mendoza – Agrelo, Las Compuertas, Perdriel and Vistalba – and is a well-priced, textbook expression of Argentina’s signature red grape. Fig, blackberry and summer pudding flavours are complemented by a twist of liquorice and a fresh, tangy, tapering finish. A red that makes me want to fire up the barbecue.
Food Match: Lamb
2023 Sogrape Grão Vasco Vinho Tinto, Dão
( £8.50, 13%, Tesco )Grão Vasco always reminds me of my late friend Salvador Guedes, who once ran Sogrape in Portugal, as we drank it together watching a third-division football match in the Dão region, where it comes from. Always a reliable quaffer – and a little bit more – it’s a smooth, full-flavoured blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro and 10% other local grapes with bramble, raspberry and summer pudding flavours and a nip of chewy tannin.
2022 Taste the Difference Barbera d'Asti, Piedmont
( £9.75, 14.5%, Sainsbury's )I often think of Barbera as a wine for Nebbiolo drinkers on a budget, as it has some of the tannic structure of its more famous Piedmontese partner, if not quite the same perfume and nobility. This excellent example comes from the excellent Araldica co-operative and is appealingly juicy and intense, with lovely plum, damson and blackberry fruit flavours, lots of racy acidity and a backbone of sinewy tannins.
2022 Wave Crest Mount Benson Shiraz, Limestone Coast
( £10, 14%, Majestic )Sourced from Australia’s evocatively named Limestone Coast, this is a wine for people who like a bit of zip and freshness in their Shiraz. Sappy, tangy and very lightly wooded, it has aromas of clove and Asian spices, a palate of plum and red berries, supple tannins and an appropriately chalky finish. A perfect pizza night red.
2021 Zulal Areni Red Classic, Vayots Dzor
( £16.50 until February 9; £19 thereafter, 14%, The Wine Society )The Wine Society is never afraid to buy wines from little-known countries, such as Armenia, which is one of the reasons I love their list. On offer until early next week, this is a welcome opportunity to try Areni Noir, thought to be one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. Sourced from high-altitude vineyards over 1,500 metres on volcanic soils, it’s an unoaked delight, showing impressive zip and freshness, racy plum, bramble and redcurrant fruit and textured, fine-grained tannins. Delicious.
2018 Taste the Difference Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta
( £16, 13.5%, Sainsbury's )A nice combination of the modern and traditional styles of Rioja, this blend of Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo was made for Sainsbury’s by the talented María Larrea of CVNE in Haro. Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, it’s a structured, focused, well-balanced red from a cooler, more Atlantic-influenced vintage, with flavours of blackberry, plum, liquorice and vanilla spice and enough tannic backbone to age further in bottle.
2024 Sons of Sugarland Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch
( £30, 14%, The Wine Society )Almost ridiculously good at the price, this comes from an unoffocial Grand Cru Syrah parcel on the Karibib estate in the Polkadraai Hills and is as good as a top northern Rhône red. Fermented with 100% whole bunches in concrete tanks, it has amazing depth and focus, aromas of clove and Negroni spices, layers of tapenade, oregano and blackberry, granite-derived freshness and a lingering, herbal finish. Effortless brilliance from Reenen Borman.
2023 Dominio Basconcillos Finca de Altura, Ribera del Duero
( £20, 15%, Tanners )Estates in Ribera del Duero don’t get much higher than Dominio Basconcillos’ isolated, spectacularly situated vineyards at 960 metres in Gumiel de Izán. Considered marginal just 20 years ago, they have come into their own with climate change. Made by the talented Ángel Calleja, this is a stand-alone Tempranillo that carries its 15% alcohol lightly, thanks to the freshness that comes with the territory. Stylishly wooded in French oak, it has lovely texture and acidity, a chalky undertone and a core of bramble and blackberry fruit.
2023 Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir, Martinborough
( £21.25, 13%, Majestic )Named after one of Martinborough’s pioneers, John Martin, this is a wonderfully bright, tangy, graceful Pinot Noir from one of New Zealand’s best North Island regions. Fresh, tangy and focused, with nicely understated oak, it has a beguiling garnet hue, goji berry and wild strawberry fruit and a top note of crushed rose petal. Beautifully balanced.
2023 Zuccardi Polígonos Paraje Altamira Malbec, Uco Valley
( £26, 14%, Sainsbury's )Part of a very strong range under Zuccardi’s Polígonos brand, this comes from cooler, south-facing vines at 1,100 metres in Paraje Altamira, one of the finest sun-regions of Argentina’s high-altitude Uco Valley. Markedly influenced by its limestone soils, it luxuriates in violet and wet stone aromas, lovely zip and acidity, chalky minerality and intense plum, damson and blackberry fruit flavours.
2023 Piedra Fluida Majec, Tenerife
( £14.95, 13%, The Wine Society )I’ve recommneded a white from Piedra Fluida in the past, but I also wanted to let you know about this red, now that it’s available in the UK. Made from a more or less equal co-fermentation of white Listán Blanco (aka Palomino) and the local Listán Negro grape, it’s an intriguing tinto from the volcanic soils of Tenerife, with lots of old vine concentration, spicy red berry flavours, a waft of wild mountain herbs and savoury, fine-grained tannins.
2021 Corte Alle Mura Chianti Riserva, Tuscany
( £6.99, 13%, Lidl )Lidl aren’t terribly forthcoming about the varietal make-up of some of their wines, but this is obviously Sangiovese-based, possibly with some other red and white grapes. At this kind of price, maybe the details don’t matter, because this is one the best reds in the discounter’s core range. Just the thing to drink with a plate of pasta, it has aromas of tobacco leaf and black tea and a palate of plum and red cherry fruit supported by savoury tannins and refreshing acidity. It looks pretty smart, too.