91

2017 Atlantis, Santorini

( £8, down from £12, 13%, Marks & Spencer )

Currently on a deal that has reduced its price by £4, this was worth buying at £12, but is especially so now. Made from Greece’s increasingly trendy Assyrtiko, with 5% each of Aidani and Athiri for company, this is a brilliant seafood white that’s crunchy, pithy and slightly salty, with lemon and lime zest fruit, an undertone of wild herbs and a long and very refreshing finish. If the summer ever starts again, drink a bottle outside in the sun. If not, imagine you’re on a Greek island. Drink young and well chilled.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-21Similar Wines: £5-£10, 90-94, Greece, White, Aidani, Assyrtiko, Athiri
90

2018 Tapada de Vilar, Vinho Verde

( £7, 10.5%, Marks & Spencer )

One of a number of wines at Marks & Spencer to have benefited from a new lower price, this is just the thing for the warmer weather: a light, tangy, spritzy white made from three local Portuguese grapes – Loureiro, Arinto and a splash of Trajadura – and showing lip smacking flavours of green apple, citrus peel and white pepper. Wonderfully crisp and refreshing.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-20Similar Wines: £5-£10, 90-94, Portugal, Dry, White, Arinto, Loureiro, Trajadura
90

2013 Palatia Pinot Noir, Pfalz

( £10 (down to £8), 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )

Gerd Stepp used to buy wine for Marks & Spencer before he returned to his former life as a winemaker in Germany. M&S’ loss is our gain (and they are still stocking his wines anyway) because this is an oustandingly well priced Pinot from a country that has more of the variety in the ground than New Zealand does. It’s a smooth, savoury, easy-drinking red with some spice, sweet plum and raspberry fruit, good texture and a long, supple finish underpinned by subtle oak. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-18Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Germany, Red, Pinot Noir
91

2012 Tbilvino Qvevris, Kakheti

( £9, 11.5%, Marks & Spencer )

Fresh from a trip to Georgia, I recommended this wine on Saturday Kitchen as a way of pushing the vinous boundaries on daytime TV. I’m delighted that it was so well received. As orange wines go, this Rkaciteli from the country’s best wine region, Kakheti, is not that extreme, as only part of the blend was fermented and aged in clay amphorae (qvevri). But it’s still a very good example of the style: bone dry and slightly bitter (from the skins) with notes of orange rind and black tea and a lingering, dry finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-18Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Georgia, White, Rkaciteli
88

2011 Falua, Terius, Touriga Nacional, Tejo

( £8, 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )

The Tejo is not the first place you’d go in search of Touriga Nacional (a grape that’s more often associated with the Douro and Dão), but this is excellent value and packs a real punch at the price. Full bodied, firm and concentrated, it’s floral and perfumed with appealing balckberry fruit and good underlying structure, relying on fruit rather than oak for its appeal. 

Drinking window: 2014-17Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Portugal, Red, Touriga Nacional
88

2012 Tikves Smederevka Rkaciteli, Macedonia

( £6.99, 12%, Marks & Spencer )

Its’ great to see a UK supermarket taking a punt on a Macedonian wine made from indigenous grapes (to be strictly accurate, Rkaciteli originated in Georgia, but Smederevka is a local staple). This is a white that has maintained acidity in warm conditions, a little like Assyrtiko in Greece, and it’s deliciosuly crisp and refreshing, with notes of fennel, lemon peel and a bitter twist that’s reminiscent of Italy. 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, White, Rkaciteli, Smederevka
93

NV De St Gall Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne

( £29 down to £21.75, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )

Well up to the very good standards of the Union Champagne co-op, this all Chardonnay fizz from Premier and Grand Cru villages is a very refined drop: fresh, focused and well structured with lowish dosage (residual sugar) and hints of brioche and citrus fruits. A Champagne that will age well, too, on past performance. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, France, Sparkling, Chardonnay
90

2012 Mâcon-Villages-Uchizy, Burgundy

( £10.99 down to £8.24, 13%, Marks & Spencer )

2012 was an excellent vintge for white Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. This unoaked example from the Domaine Sallet Raphaël is a case in point, combining ripe, stone fruit flavours with tangy acidity and limestone-derived freshness. Very drinakble indeed, even for Chardonnay agnostics.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, White, Chardonnay
92

2012 Bodega Castro Martin Albariño, Rías Baixas

( £11.99 down to £8.99, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )

Angela Martin’s wines seem to get better with every vintage and are now among my favourite Albariños from Rías Baixas. The combination of low yields, ageing on lees in tank for added weight and very pure, almost transparent fruit flavours is very enticing here: apple, pear and some quince with a hint of honey. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Albariño
93

2012 Darting Estate Dürkheimer Kabinett Riesling Trocken, Pfalz

( £9.49 down to £7.12, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )

If your impression of German Riesling is that it tends to be sweet, try this off-dry number from one of the best names in the southerly Pfalz region. It’s very aromatic, with exotic, tropical fruit notes, a hint of carbon dioxide on the palate, lovely, crunchy, peach and apple fruit and bright, focused acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Germany, White, Riesling
90

2012 Recanati Carignan/Petite Sirah, Judean Hills

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )

It’s good to see a supermarket taking a punt on an Israeli wine, especially one made from Carignan and Petite Sirah, which are arguably better suited to the country’s Mediterranean climate than the red Bordeaux varieties. This is concentrated and deeply coloured, with some oak ageing adding to the ripe, savoury plum and damson fruit . The tannins are supple, with good acidity for extra backbone. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Israel, Red, Carignan, Petite Sirah