93

2018 Fincher & Co The Dividing Line, Marlborough

( £18.95, 13%, The Pop Up Deli )

So much Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc tastes as if it’s come out of the same bottomless tank, that it’s a pleasure to come across something that restores your faith in the quality of New Zealand’s most popular wine style. Made by Master of Wine Liam Stevenson, this was picked early (by hand, not machine) and fermented with lots of solids in old French oak barrels. Dry, savoury and complex, it has appealing notes of gunflint and elderflower with subtle oak and a hint of passion fruit. Very smart.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: £15-20, 90-94, New Zealand, White, Sauvignon Blanc
91

2018 El Garbi Garnacha Blanca, Terra Alta

( £16.95, 14% , Red & White )

Master of Wine Liam Stevenson wrote his dissertation about Priorat and was inspired by the white wines of the region to produce a Garnacha Blanca in nearby Terra Alta. This is made in partnership with another MW, Mark Pygott, and is excellent value. Leesy, intense and very lightly wooded, it has grapefruit and lemon peel flavours, a dusting of baking spices, stony minerality and top notes of jasmine and hawthorn blossom.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: £15-20, 90-94, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
91

2018 Domaine Jones Grenache Gris Vieilles Vignes, IGP Côtes Catalanes, Roussillon

( £16.45, 13.5%, Amps Wine Merchants )

This Grenache Gris vineyard was the first that Katie Jones bought back in 2009 before she set up her brilliant business in the Languedoc-Roussillon. Every bit as good as the 2017, it’s wonderfully herbal and fresh, with notes of greengage, aniseed, thyme and lemon zest, benefiting from the concentration of old vines and finishing with length and elegance.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: £15-20, 90-94, France, White, Grenache Gris
91

Douro Valley Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Reserva White

( £31.30, 13.5%, Wine Buyers )

For local grape varieties make up the blend here – Arinto, Folgazão, Rabigato and Viosinho – sourced from vineyards on the southern side of the Douro Valley in their Quintas de Ervamoira and Bons Ares. An appealing counterpoint to the more powerful reds and fortifieds of the region, this has lovely freshness, aromas of fennel, citrus and oatmeal and a youthful, tangy, deftly wooded palate. Should develop further in bottle.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-24Similar Wines: £30-35, 90-94, Portugal, White, Arinto, Folgazão, Rabigato, Viosinho
94

2019 Pepe Mendoza Pureza Moscatel Abargués, Alicante

( £15.50, 12.5% )

Coastal Alicante – with a marked marine influence – is the source of this stunning, amphora fermented and aged, old-vine Moscatel de Alejandría from the region’s most exciting producer, Pepe Mendoza. Fresh, tangy and salty, with mouthwatering acidity, flavours of pear, citrus and orange water, amazing focus and some grip from partial skin contact.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-24Similar Wines: 90-94, Spain, White, Moscatel de Alejandría
95

2017 Pepe Mendoza Macabeo-Merseguera Ánforas Tinajas de Padilla, Alicante

( €16, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

Production is small on these Pequeñas Vinícolas wines, alas, but the quality is very impressive indeed. This is an experimental cuvée of Macabeo and Merseguera, aged in amphora under a veil of the flor yeast. It’s an engagingly complex white with notes of wild flowers, camomile tea, tangerine peel and a hint of sea salt. Yeasty and long, it’s one of Spain’s greatest Mediterranean whites. Utterly delicious.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: €15-20, 95-100, Spain, White, Macabeo, Merseguera
94

2017 Viñas del Cámbrico Rufete Blanco Granito, Sierra de Salamanca

( £24.99, 12.5%, All About Wine )

Made with organic grapes grown on granite soils in the little-known Sierra de Salamanca at 700 metres, this is a very rare Spanish white with incredible texture, focus and minerality, especially at only 12.5% alcohol. Salty, yeasty and beeswaxy, with a bracing, mouthwatering finish. No oak, just fruit intensity and texture. 

BuyDrinking window: 2020-24Similar Wines: £20-25, 90-94, Spain, White, Rufete Blanco
91

2018 Cuatro Rayas Cuarenta Vendimias, Rueda

( €8.50, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

The vines used to produce this impressive, well-priced Verdejo from the go-ahead Cuatro Rayas co-operative are “only” 40 years old, but that would be considered ancient in some parts of the world. Rich and almost exotic, with notes of lychee and white peach, some subtle oak from 20% barrel fermentation in 500-litre barrels and zesty, crunchy acidity.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: €5-10, Spain, White, Verdejo
93

2015 Cuatro Rayas Amador Diez Cuvée, Rueda

( €34.90, 13%, Available from the winery )

Made with a selection of the co-operative’s most venerable vineyards, this hails from plots that are all over 100 years’ old. It’s an oxidatively handled style that will appeal to fans of traditional white Rioja, with a mix of French and American oak, lots of toast and spices and flavours of pear, saffron and beeswax underpinned by salinity. Developing nicely in bottle.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-25Similar Wines: €30-40, 90-94, Spain, White, Verdejo
95

2017 Cuatro Rayas Amador Diez Cuvée, Rueda

( €29, 13%, Available from the winery )

One of the most ambitious Rueda whites, this comes from a selection of pre-phylloxera vineyards and is built to age. The oak is better integrated than on the 2015, which is also available in the market right now, supporting a wine with amazing intensity and focus. Nutty and intense, it has flavours of pear, citrus and marzipan, with undertones of fennel and cinnamon, good structure and racy, palate-cleansing acidity.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-29Similar Wines: €25-30, 95-100, Spain, White, Verdejo
93

2019 Kumeu River Village Hand Harvested Chardonnay, Kumeu

( £10.50, The Wine Society )

If Michael Brajkovich MW were a Burgundian rather than a New Zealander, he would be among the most celebrated white winemakers in the Côte de Beaune, right up there with the likes of Dominique Lafon, Pierre-Vves Colin Morey and Jean-Marc Roulot. The good news for us is that we can buy his amazing Chardonnays at ludicrously cheap prices. This is only his entry-point wine, but is typically well balanced, refreshing and focused, with just a hint of oak spice, leesy complexity, some struck match undertones and a chiselled, refreshing finish. A Kiwi wine that’s better than many Puligny-Montrachets.

BuySimilar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay