93

2022 Azienda Agricola Cortese Vanedda Bianco, Terre Siciliane IGP, Sicily

( £18.95, 13.5%, Aitken Wines, Hoult's, Love Wine, Magnum Wine, Market Hall Wines, ND John, Reserve Wines, Slurp, Yorkshire Vintners )

One of the most exciting whites I’ve tasted from Sicily in ages, this is a finely judged, organically farmed  cuvée of the local grapes, Catarratto and Grillo. Fermented on skins for a couple of days – which gives the wine extra weight and backbone – before ageing in large barrels called botti in Italian,  it’s a rich, tangy, nutty delight, with loads of racy acidity, citrus, nectarine and pink grapefruit flavours and a waft of juniper and wild thyme.

BuyDrinking window: 2025-29Similar Wines: £15-20, 90-94, Italy, White, Catarratto, Grillo

Etna: wines from the volcano

by Simon Woolf
As far as wine regions go, Mount Etna could be described as a wine geek’s wet dream. Volcanic soil, obscure indigenous grape varieties, high altitudes and pre-phylloxera vineyards are just...
90

2010 Cantine Russo Rampante Etna Bianco, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 12.5%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

A great example of Etna Bianco, with 70% Carricante and 30% Catarratto. Bone dry, flinty and herby, with green melon and capsicum on the nose. Rampante is one of 60 or so “Contrada”, or vineyard sites particularly known for high quality production in Etna. The fruit is ripe, manifesting a baked apple character as it develops in the mouth.

Drinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, White, Carricante, Catarratto