Sales of Sauvignon Blanc as a stand-alone grape vastly outsell those of so-called white Bordeaux blends, but combining it with Semillon (70% of the mix here) often adds layers of complexity. This unwooded example from the Xanadu winery in Margaret River is a refreshing, tangy delight, with flavours of lemongrass, cream soda and fresh green herbs and a racy, energetic finish.
Food Match: Chicken
2025 New Dawn White, Western Cape
( £10, 13.5%, Majestic )A wonderfully drinkable example of what’s known as a Cape White Blend in South Africa, this cuvée from talented young winemaker Rüdger van Wyk combines Chenin Blanc, 42% Roussanne and 4% Verdelho, using grapes from the Breedekloof and Stellenbosch regions. Fresh, tangy and perfumed, it marries flavours of pear, peach and yellow apple with racy acidity and a herbal twist. A great party white.
2024 M&S Collection Stepp Riesling *S*, Pfalz
( £14, 12%, Marks & Spencer )It’s often said that we wine writers love Riesling more than consumers do, but I defy anyone not to enjoy this wonderful example from two nearby vineyards in Gerd Stepp’s native Pfalz region – Kallstadter Saumagen and Herxheimer Goldberg. Deliciously toasty, tangy and focused, it has lime and wet stone characters and a long, mouth-watering finish. Refreshingly low in alcohol too.
2024 The Society's Exhibition Godello, Valdeorras
( £14.95, 13%, The Wine Society )Valdeorras in the eastern part of Galicia makes some of Spain’s most exciting white wines, using the local Godello grape. This was blended by Wine Society buyer Harriet Kinninmonth and star consultant Jorge Navascués of Virgen de Galir. Showing the structure and intensity that are typical of the variety, it has flavours of pear, quince and aniseed and a whisper of oak spices.
2023 M&S Qvevris Kisi, Kakheti
( £12, 12%, Marks & Spencer )Kisi is one of the best of Georgia’s unique line-up of indigenous grapes, so it’s great to see an example on a supermarket shelf in the UK. This is a traditional, orange style white that was fermented and matured in buried clay vessels called qveveris. It has intriguing layers of oolong tea, orange zest and juniper, some underlying tannic structure and a fresh, tangy finish. Something a little different.
2024 Nepenthe Grüner Veltliner, Adelaide Hills
( £16, 12.5%, Tesco )It’s wonderful to see Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s greatest white grape, being grown in the cool climate of Australia’s Adelaide Hills. Racy, textured and complete, this well-priced example has citrus, cherimoya and white pepper flavours, undertones of toast and lanolin and a pure, pithy, bone-dry finish. Perfect on a scorching-hot summer’s day.
2023 Domaine de la Croisée Comtoise Poulsard, Côtes du Jura
( £17, 13%, The Wine Society )Part of the joy of the Wine Society’s range is that they champion wines from small, young producers like Louis Bordel and Chloe Nardin in the Jura. This the perfect summer red, sourced from two contrasting vineyards with different aspects. Sappy, juicy and refreshing, it has lovely goji berry and pomegranate flavours, subtle, savoury tannins and a wonderful sense of energy and freshness. The kind of thing I want to order by the case.
2024 Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine OVP Chenin Blanc, Coastal
( £13.50, 13.5%, Sainsbury's )A white that’s made in large volumes – and at a bargain price – this brilliant Chenin Blanc should encourage people to buy more wines from old vines. It’s a beautifully judged, naturally fermented white from Ricardo Cloete, sourced from Durbanville and Stellenbosch. Vanilla-scented thanks to 30% new wood, it has pear, yellow apple and nectarine flavours and zesty, cool-climate acidity.
2023 Cape Point Fairtrade Sauvignon/Semillon, Western Cape
( £8.35, 12.5%, The Co-operative )It’s good to see a Cape Sauvignon Blanc, blended here with 30% Semillon, with a little bottle age rather than released and drunk within a few months of the vintage. This is a tangy, very lightly wooded cuvée from the talented Riandri Visser at a very appealing price, with layers of gooseberry, gunflint and lime and an appealing herbal twist.
2024 Zwartwater Estate White, Paardeberg, Swartland
( £24, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Something of a coup for the Wine Society, where buyer Victoria Mason MW is doing exciting things with the retailer’s South African range, this is a new wine from a historic estate on the Paardeberg, now under new ownership as they say in the hotel trade. It’s a brilliant, layered, complex blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne and the Hungarian grape Hárslevelü, with aromas of honeysuckle, fennel and wet stone and a tangy, racy palate of orange zest, pear and pink grapefruit. A wine that looks every bit as good as it tastes.
2024 Winzer Krems Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal
( £9.50, 12.5%, Majestic )Winzer Krems is one of the best co-operatives in Europe, especially well known for its great-value Grüner Veltliners. This is a delicious summer white, best sipped by the Danube, but equally delicious wherever you choose to enjoy it. White pepper and bay leaf aromas are complemented by a palate of citrus and pear and a bitter twist from 18 days of skin contact.
2025 Luna Beberide Mencía, Bierzo
( £11.50, 13%, The Wine Society )Bierzo is arguably the Spanish region that is best qualified to call itself the “Burgundy of Spain”, assuming it feels the need to do so. The vineyards are often tiny, the wines produced in small quantities, the approach appealingly artisanal. The biggest difference is the price points, which is why I love wines like this unwooded Mencía from Luna Beberida. Crunchy, juicy and tangy, it has some stemmy grip, wonderful energy and focus, stony intensity and a core of pomegranate, plum and goji berry fruit. Lip-smackingly delicious.