96

2017 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay, Nelson

( £44.99, 13.5%, New Zealand House of Wine )

Consistently among New Zealand’s best Chardonnays and a wine that ages extremely well under screwcap, this wild-yeast fermented white hails from the Home and Rosie’s Blocks at Neudorf’s vineyards in Upper Moutere. Fresh, elegant and savoury, it has deftly interwoven (12% new) French oak, flavours of citrus and cinnamon, impressive focus and a tangy, mineral-edged core. A very classy, well-judged white.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-27Similar Wines: £40-50, 95-100, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
93

2017 Domaine Cady Cheninsolite, Anjou, Loire Valley

( £13.99, 14%, Waitrose )

The kind of thing that wouldn’t look out of place in a line up of New Wave South African Chenin Blancs, this superb organic Loire Valley example from Alexandre Cady has a winning combination of richness, lees-derived complexity, subtle 30% new oak and thrilling acidity. Flavours of pear, apple and quince combine beautifully on the palate with undertones of baking spices and a long, refreshing finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-25Similar Wines: £10-£20, 90-94, France, White, Chenin Blanc
90

2018 Tapada de Vilar, Vinho Verde

( £7, 10.5%, Marks & Spencer )

One of a number of wines at Marks & Spencer to have benefited from a new lower price, this is just the thing for the warmer weather: a light, tangy, spritzy white made from three local Portuguese grapes – Loureiro, Arinto and a splash of Trajadura – and showing lip smacking flavours of green apple, citrus peel and white pepper. Wonderfully crisp and refreshing.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-20Similar Wines: £5-£10, 90-94, Portugal, Dry, White, Arinto, Loureiro, Trajadura
91

2015 Domaine de la Toupie Fine Fleur, Roussillon

( £15.95, 14.5, Joie de Vin )

The Roussillon region, which forms part of France’s border with Spain, is best known for its reds and fortified wines, but can make surprisingly impressive whites, too. Jérôme Collas makes small amounts of this deliciously characterful white blend from a combination of old-vine Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu, grown at a cool 350 metres. The result is a taut, herbal, savoury white with refreshing acidity, a nutty, salty tang and hints of white flowers and fresh pears. One of number of great Roussillon selections from Joie de Vin.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-23Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu
93

2015 Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay, Marlborough

( £21, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

Not as well known as the Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc releases, but every bit as good in my opinion, this is frequently among my favourite South Island Chardonnays. Toasty, savoury and enticing, it has citrus and beeswax notes supported by fresh, palate cleasning acidity and a nutty finish. Just starting to develop bottle-aged complexity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2018-24Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
94

2015 Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Section 94, Marlborough

( £17-22, 13.5% )

A wine that’s consistently a match for all but the very best (and much more expensive) wines of Pessac-Léognan, this deftly oaked Marlborough Sauvignon ages brilliantly too. Leesy, rich yet beautifully balanced, it combines flavours of vanilla spice, gooseberry fool, lanolin and vivid acidity. One of the region’s very best expressions of the grape. 

BuyDrinking window: 2018-24Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Sauvignon Blanc
92

2015 Neudorf Twenty Five Rows Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

( £21, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

Neudorf makes some of the most characterful Chardonnays in New Zealand. This is their unoaked, Kiwi-meets-Chablis style that sess no oak, but seven months on lees to pick up some extra texture and weight. Supple and fruity, with notes of white peach and pear, taut acidity and a long, satisfying finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2017-20Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
94

2015 Neudorf, Moutere Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

( £35, 14%, Contact the winery for details )

Consistently one of New Zealand’s best Chardonnays, this is a rich, leesy, barrel-fermented style that treads the line (successfully, I might add) between opulence and pithy freshness. Citrus, oatmeal and honeyed notes are complemented by subtle vanilla sweetness and lovely, understated concentration.

BuyDrinking window: 2017-22Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
90

2014 Domaine des Garennes Empreinte Blanc, Saumur, Loire Valley

( €10, 13, Contact the winery for details )

Youthful, pithy and still quite tight, this barrel-fermented Chenin needs more time in bottle to show what it’s really capable of. Apple, citrus and pear flavours are complemented by stony minerality, some vanilla spice and a tangy, focused finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2017-20Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, White, Chenin Blanc
91

2014 Domaine Jones Grenache Gris, IGP Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon

( £13.50, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

Englishwoman Katie Jones’ old vine releases from the Maury area are improving with every vintage and are now some of the best in the Roussillon. This Grenache Gris shows the variety’s focus, minerality and herbal edge, complemented by notes of pear and beeswax and the faintest kiss of oak. 

Drinking window: 2016-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Grenache Gris
90

2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel

( TBC, 12%, www.sybillekuntz.de )

A little less concentrated than the Spätlese release (as you’d expect) but this has ghe focus and freshness that are typical of all of Sybille Kuntz’s 2015s. Citrus, green tea and spring flower notes are underpinned by minerally acidity and stony, mouthwatering crispness. As pure as Riesling gets. 

Drinking window: 2016-19Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Germany, White, Riesling