96

2018 Verónica Ortega Cobrana, Bierzo

( €26.75, 12.5%, Cuvee 3000, Decantalo )

Verónica Ortega worked in Burgundy (at Domaine de la Romance-Conti, no less) before she set up her own winery in Bierzo in 2010. This hauntingly delicate wine isn’t made from Pinot Noir, but it wouldn’t look out of place in a line up from Chambolle-Musigny. Sourced from seven parcels at 750 metres on slate soils, it sees no wood (only amphoras) and is wonderfully poised and balletic. Raspberry, tobacco pouch and wild strawberry flavours are complemented by rose petal aromas and a nip of sinewy tannin. You may have trouble tracking this down right now, although I’m assured that UK agent Vine Trail will have some next spring.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-28Similar Wines: €25-30, 95-100, Spain, Red, Mencia, Doña Banca, Godello, Palomino
93

2019 Verónica Ortega Kinki, Bierzo

( €21.80, 11.2%, Cuvee 3000, Decantalo )

The intriguingly named Kinki is a very unusual Bierzo for several reasons. First, it’s a co-fermenteation of Mencía with Alicante Bouschet and 30% white grapes (Godello, Palomino and Doña Blanca); second it has only 11.2% alcohol; and third it is fermented and aged in a combination of amphoras and larger barrels. Pale, delicate and elegant, with some clove spice from 100% whole bunch fermentation, flavours of watermelon, wild strawberry and pomegranate, racy acidity and a hint of reduction. Bierzo meets the Côte de Beaune.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-25Similar Wines: €20-30, 90-94, Spain, Red, Alicante Bouschet, Mencia, Doña Blanca, Godello, Palomino
97

2019 Verónica Ortega Cal, Bierzo

( €25.65, 12.5%, Cuvee 3000 )

Cal is one the most exciting wines I’ve tasted this year and ranks among Spain’s very best whites. Made entirely with Godello grown on rare (for Bierzo) limestone soils at 650 metres in San Juan de la Mata, it’s fresh and light bodied, but with remarkable density and concentration for a wine with only 12.5% alcohol. Lees, chalky and saline, this is like a cross between a Chablis and a Rías Baixas Albariño, with aromas of white flowers and sea salt and notes of fresh bread, wet stones and lemon zest. Stunning.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-26Similar Wines: €25-30, 95-100, Spain, White, Godello
90

2012 Bolo Godello Mountain Wine, Valdeorras

( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )

Alabriño may be more familiar to consumers than Godello, but the latter grape can be just as exciting. It’s more mineral and weighty (and even works well with oak on occasion). This high altitude example is fresh and bone dry, with a chalky, almost Chablis-like note and flavours of citrus, apple and pear. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, White, Godello