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2019 Verónica Ortega Cal, Bierzo

( €25.65, 12.5%, Cuvee 3000 )

Cal is one the most exciting wines I’ve tasted this year and ranks among Spain’s very best whites. Made entirely with Godello grown on rare (for Bierzo) limestone soils at 650 metres in San Juan de la Mata, it’s fresh and light bodied, but with remarkable density and concentration for a wine with only 12.5% alcohol. Lees, chalky and saline, this is like a cross between a Chablis and a Rías Baixas Albariño, with aromas of white flowers and sea salt and notes of fresh bread, wet stones and lemon zest. Stunning.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-26Similar Wines: €25-30, 95-100, Spain, White, Godello