96

2018 Verónica Ortega Cobrana, Bierzo

( €26.75, 12.5%, Cuvee 3000, Decantalo )

Verónica Ortega worked in Burgundy (at Domaine de la Romance-Conti, no less) before she set up her own winery in Bierzo in 2010. This hauntingly delicate wine isn’t made from Pinot Noir, but it wouldn’t look out of place in a line up from Chambolle-Musigny. Sourced from seven parcels at 750 metres on slate soils, it sees no wood (only amphoras) and is wonderfully poised and balletic. Raspberry, tobacco pouch and wild strawberry flavours are complemented by rose petal aromas and a nip of sinewy tannin. You may have trouble tracking this down right now, although I’m assured that UK agent Vine Trail will have some next spring.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-28Similar Wines: €25-30, 95-100, Spain, Red, Mencia, Doña Banca, Godello, Palomino