It’s not from Beaujolais, the subject of my main piece this week, but it is made from Gamay (albeit the local Gamay Saint Romain clone). This is a stunning red from the little-known Loire Valley appellation of Côte Roannaise that saw me place an order within five minutes of tasting it at the Wine Society this week. Fermented and aged in concrete tanks with 20% whole bunches and not an oak barrel in sight, it’s tangy, refreshing and lightly grassy, with layers of plum, redcurrant and white pepper, granular tannins and a racy, lingering finish. One of the best-value reds I’ve had so far this year.
Wine Type: Red
2024 Villard Le Pinot Noir Grand Vin, Casablanca Valley
( £19, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Given the price of red Burgundy these days, this Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir from Thierry and Charlie Villard is a steal. Made with a 60/40 combination of the Valdivieso and 115 clones, it’s a graceful, scented, refined expression of the grape with succulent raspberry and goji berry flavours and a bright, energetic finish.
2021 Tenuta Terrose Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany
( £16.95, 14%, The Co-op )Based on the Sangiovese grape, known locally at Prugnolo Gentile, with support from 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, this is a very well-priced red from one of Tuscany’s most famous DOCGs. Showing the grip and focus that come with the territory, it has plum, damson and tobacco leaf flavours, sinewy tannins, a waft of black tea and Mediterranean herbs and nicely understated older oak.
2022 Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo
( £14-17, 14%, Asda, Morrisons, Ocada, Tesco )Golden Reserve showcases the quality of four different sub-regions in the Primera Zona close to Mendoza – Agrelo, Las Compuertas, Perdriel and Vistalba – and is a well-priced, textbook expression of Argentina’s signature red grape. Fig, blackberry and summer pudding flavours are complemented by a twist of liquorice and a fresh, tangy, tapering finish. A red that makes me want to fire up the barbecue.
2023 Sogrape Grão Vasco Vinho Tinto, Dão
( £8.50, 13%, Tesco )Grão Vasco always reminds me of my late friend Salvador Guedes, who once ran Sogrape in Portugal, as we drank it together watching a third-division football match in the Dão region, where it comes from. Always a reliable quaffer – and a little bit more – it’s a smooth, full-flavoured blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro and 10% other local grapes with bramble, raspberry and summer pudding flavours and a nip of chewy tannin.
2022 Wave Crest Mount Benson Shiraz, Limestone Coast
( £10, 14%, Majestic )Sourced from Australia’s evocatively named Limestone Coast, this is a wine for people who like a bit of zip and freshness in their Shiraz. Sappy, tangy and very lightly wooded, it has aromas of clove and Asian spices, a palate of plum and red berries, supple tannins and an appropriately chalky finish. A perfect pizza night red.
2021 Zulal Areni Red Classic, Vayots Dzor
( £16.50 until February 9; £19 thereafter, 14%, The Wine Society )The Wine Society is never afraid to buy wines from little-known countries, such as Armenia, which is one of the reasons I love their list. On offer until early next week, this is a welcome opportunity to try Areni Noir, thought to be one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. Sourced from high-altitude vineyards over 1,500 metres on volcanic soils, it’s an unoaked delight, showing impressive zip and freshness, racy plum, bramble and redcurrant fruit and textured, fine-grained tannins. Delicious.
2018 Taste the Difference Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta
( £16, 13.5%, Sainsbury's )A nice combination of the modern and traditional styles of Rioja, this blend of Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo was made for Sainsbury’s by the talented María Larrea of CVNE in Haro. Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, it’s a structured, focused, well-balanced red from a cooler, more Atlantic-influenced vintage, with flavours of blackberry, plum, liquorice and vanilla spice and enough tannic backbone to age further in bottle.
2024 Sons of Sugarland Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch
( £30, 14%, The Wine Society )Almost ridiculously good at the price, this comes from an unoffocial Grand Cru Syrah parcel on the Karibib estate in the Polkadraai Hills and is as good as a top northern Rhône red. Fermented with 100% whole bunches in concrete tanks, it has amazing depth and focus, aromas of clove and Negroni spices, layers of tapenade, oregano and blackberry, granite-derived freshness and a lingering, herbal finish. Effortless brilliance from Reenen Borman.
2023 Dominio Basconcillos Finca de Altura, Ribera del Duero
( £20, 15%, Tanners )Estates in Ribera del Duero don’t get much higher than Dominio Basconcillos’ isolated, spectacularly situated vineyards at 960 metres in Gumiel de Izán. Considered marginal just 20 years ago, they have come into their own with climate change. Made by the talented Ángel Calleja, this is a stand-alone Tempranillo that carries its 15% alcohol lightly, thanks to the freshness that comes with the territory. Stylishly wooded in French oak, it has lovely texture and acidity, a chalky undertone and a core of bramble and blackberry fruit.
2023 Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir, Martinborough
( £21.25, 13%, Majestic )Named after one of Martinborough’s pioneers, John Martin, this is a wonderfully bright, tangy, graceful Pinot Noir from one of New Zealand’s best North Island regions. Fresh, tangy and focused, with nicely understated oak, it has a beguiling garnet hue, goji berry and wild strawberry fruit and a top note of crushed rose petal. Beautifully balanced.
2023 Zuccardi Polígonos Paraje Altamira Malbec, Uco Valley
( £26, 14%, Sainsbury's )Part of a very strong range under Zuccardi’s Polígonos brand, this comes from cooler, south-facing vines at 1,100 metres in Paraje Altamira, one of the finest sun-regions of Argentina’s high-altitude Uco Valley. Markedly influenced by its limestone soils, it luxuriates in violet and wet stone aromas, lovely zip and acidity, chalky minerality and intense plum, damson and blackberry fruit flavours.