Something to buy now and drink when we shift into autumn perhaps, although I never need an excuse to drink a red from Apostolos Thymiopoulos at any time of the year. This is an intense, fruit-packed Xinomavro from Naoussa, the grape’s Greek heartland, with the spine of tannin that’s a feature of the variety, some clove spice from 25% whole- bunch fermentation, flavours of damson, redcurrant and black cherry and a dusting of Mediterranean herbs.
Wine Type: Red
2023 Domaine de la Croisée Comtoise Poulsard, Côtes du Jura
( £17, 13%, The Wine Society )Part of the joy of the Wine Society’s range is that they champion wines from small, young producers like Louis Bordel and Chloe Nardin in the Jura. This the perfect summer red, sourced from two contrasting vineyards with different aspects. Sappy, juicy and refreshing, it has lovely goji berry and pomegranate flavours, subtle, savoury tannins and a  wonderful sense of energy and freshness. The kind of thing I want to order by the case.
2024 Pepe Mendoza Mares de Luz, Alicante
( £10.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Pepe Mendoza is one of the most exciting winemakers in Spain. He’d be much more famous if he were based in a more famous region than Alicante, which means that his wines are comparative bargains. This a superb blend of Giró, a rare local grape, and 30% Monastrell. It’s intensely Mediterranean, with aromas of thyme and rosemary, a savoury palate of plum, red berries and tobacco leaf  and sinewy, fine-grained tannins.
2025 Luna Beberide MencÃa, Bierzo
( £11.50, 13%, The Wine Society )Bierzo is arguably the Spanish region that is best qualified to call itself the “Burgundy of Spain”, assuming it feels the need to do so. The vineyards are often tiny, the wines produced in small quantities, the approach appealingly artisanal. The biggest difference is the price points, which is why I love wines like this unwooded MencÃa  from Luna Beberida. Crunchy, juicy and tangy, it has some stemmy grip, wonderful energy and focus, stony intensity and a core of pomegranate, plum and goji berry fruit. Lip-smackingly delicious.
2023 Clos de Luz Agras PaÃs, Cachapoal Valley
( £13.95, 12.5%, The Wine Society )Agras uses a field blend of grapes from 100-year-old vines in the Cachapoal Valley, combining PaÃs and 10% Moscatel de AlejandrÃa. Fermented with 20% whole bunches, it’s refreshingly low in alcohol at 12.5%, with jasmine and rose petal aromas, impressive underlying grip and concentration and a palate of redcurrant, cranberry and rooibos tea.
2024 Domaine Sérol Éclat de Granite, Côte Roannaise
( £15.50, 12%, The Wine Society )It’s not from Beaujolais, the subject of my main piece this week, but it is made from Gamay (albeit the local Gamay Saint Romain clone). This is a stunning red from the little-known Loire Valley appellation of Côte Roannaise that saw me place an order within five minutes of tasting it at the Wine Society this week. Fermented and aged in concrete tanks with 20% whole bunches and not an oak barrel in sight, it’s tangy, refreshing and lightly grassy, with layers of plum, redcurrant and white pepper, granular tannins and a racy, lingering finish. One of the best-value reds I’ve had so far this year.
2024 Villard Le Pinot Noir Grand Vin, Casablanca Valley
( £19, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Given the price of red Burgundy these days, this Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir from Thierry and Charlie Villard  is a steal. Made with a 60/40 combination of the Valdivieso and 115 clones, it’s a graceful, scented, refined expression of the grape with succulent raspberry and goji berry flavours and a bright, energetic finish.
2021 Tenuta Terrose Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany
( £16.95, 14%, The Co-op )Based on the Sangiovese grape, known locally at Prugnolo Gentile, with support from 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot,  this  is a very well-priced red from one of Tuscany’s most famous DOCGs. Showing the grip and focus that come with the territory, it has plum, damson and tobacco leaf flavours, sinewy tannins, a waft of black tea and Mediterranean herbs and nicely understated older oak.
2022 Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo
( £14-17, 14%, Asda, Morrisons, Ocada, Tesco )Golden Reserve showcases the quality of four different sub-regions in the Primera Zona close to Mendoza – Agrelo, Las Compuertas, Perdriel and Vistalba – and is a well-priced, textbook expression of Argentina’s signature red grape. Fig, blackberry and summer pudding flavours are complemented by a twist of liquorice and a fresh, tangy, tapering finish. A red that makes me want to fire up the barbecue.
2023 Sogrape Grão Vasco Vinho Tinto, Dão
( £8.50, 13%, Tesco )Grão Vasco always reminds me of my late friend Salvador Guedes, who once ran Sogrape in Portugal, as we drank it together watching a third-division football match in the Dão region, where it comes from. Always a reliable quaffer – and a little bit more – it’s a smooth, full-flavoured blend of Touriga Nacional,  Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro and 10% other local grapes with bramble, raspberry and summer pudding flavours and a nip of chewy tannin.
2022 Wave Crest Mount Benson Shiraz, Limestone Coast
( £10, 14%, Majestic )Sourced from Australia’s evocatively named Limestone Coast, this is a wine for people who like a bit of zip and freshness in their Shiraz. Sappy, tangy and very lightly wooded, it has aromas of clove and Asian spices, a palate of plum and red berries, supple tannins and an appropriately chalky finish. A perfect pizza night red.
2021 Zulal Areni Red Classic, Vayots Dzor
( £16.50 until February 9; £19 thereafter, 14%, The Wine Society )The Wine Society is never afraid to buy wines from little-known countries, such as Armenia, which is one of the reasons I love their list. On offer until early next week, this is a welcome opportunity to try Areni Noir, thought to be one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. Sourced from high-altitude vineyards over 1,500 metres on volcanic soils, it’s an unoaked delight, showing impressive zip and freshness, racy plum, bramble and redcurrant fruit and textured, fine-grained tannins. Delicious.