A nice combination of the modern and traditional styles of Rioja, this blend of Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo was made for Sainsbury’s by the talented María Larrea of CVNE in Haro. Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, it’s a structured, focused, well-balanced red from a cooler, more Atlantic-influenced vintage, with flavours of blackberry, plum, liquorice and vanilla spice and enough tannic backbone to age further in bottle.
Red Varietal: Mazuelo
2004 Bodegas Urbina Gran Reserva Blue Label, Rioja
( £26, 14%, The Wine Society )Based in Cuzcurrita, one of the coldest parts of the Rioja Alta sub-region, the extended, super brainy Urbina family makes some of the longest-lived and best-value reds in Spain. This blend of Tempranillo and around 10% Graciano and Mazuelo is a mature, scented delight, offering aromas of cured leather, coconut and tobacco leaf and dill and wild strawberry flavours framed by granular tannins and a balsamic finish. Ludicrously cheap.
2019 Muga Reserva, Rioja
( £19.99 as part of a purchase of six bottles, 14.5%, Majestic )One of a dwindling number of top Riojas that combines grapes from the Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental sub-regions, this impressive Reserva is a blend of Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Pairing Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 6% Mazuelo and 4% Graciano, with ageing in a 80/20 mix of French and American oak, it’s spicy, succulent and smartly wooded, with raspberry and blueberry fruit, sinewy tannins and plenty of acidity to freshen the finish. Will develop further in bottle.
2018 Muga Reserva, Rioja
( £17.99, 14%, Majestic )Textbook stuff from the extensive Muga family, this is a pan-regional cuvée of Tempranillo with 30% Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, aged in a combination of French and American oak. Youthful, structured and showing the freshness of the cooler, more “Atlantic” 2018 vintage, it’s good to drink now but will also reward some extra time in your wine rack. Textured and balanced, with racy acidity and flavours of liquorice, blackberry and vanilla spice.