92

2018 Pedro Parra Trane Cinsault, Itata Valley

( £29.99, 13.5%, Liberty Wines )

Trane, named after jazz legend John Coltrane, comes from a 70-year-old vineyard at 300 metres on shallow granite soils with silt and stones. Fermented with 30% whole bunches, it has medium colour, aromas of wild strawberry and Turkish Delight, juicy red berry fruit of raspberry and bramble, subtle reduction and classic Itata grip and understated intensity.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-25Similar Wines: £25-30, 90-94, Chile, Red, Cinsault
91

2018 El Garbi Garnacha Blanca, Terra Alta

( £16.95, 14% , Red & White )

Master of Wine Liam Stevenson wrote his dissertation about Priorat and was inspired by the white wines of the region to produce a Garnacha Blanca in nearby Terra Alta. This is made in partnership with another MW, Mark Pygott, and is excellent value. Leesy, intense and very lightly wooded, it has grapefruit and lemon peel flavours, a dusting of baking spices, stony minerality and top notes of jasmine and hawthorn blossom.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: £15-20, 90-94, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
95

2017 Pepe Mendoza Macabeo-Merseguera Ánforas Tinajas de Padilla, Alicante

( €16, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

Production is small on these Pequeñas Vinícolas wines, alas, but the quality is very impressive indeed. This is an experimental cuvée of Macabeo and Merseguera, aged in amphora under a veil of the flor yeast. It’s an engagingly complex white with notes of wild flowers, camomile tea, tangerine peel and a hint of sea salt. Yeasty and long, it’s one of Spain’s greatest Mediterranean whites. Utterly delicious.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: €15-20, 95-100, Spain, White, Macabeo, Merseguera
94

2017 Viñas del Cámbrico Rufete Blanco Granito, Sierra de Salamanca

( £24.99, 12.5%, All About Wine )

Made with organic grapes grown on granite soils in the little-known Sierra de Salamanca at 700 metres, this is a very rare Spanish white with incredible texture, focus and minerality, especially at only 12.5% alcohol. Salty, yeasty and beeswaxy, with a bracing, mouthwatering finish. No oak, just fruit intensity and texture. 

BuyDrinking window: 2020-24Similar Wines: £20-25, 90-94, Spain, White, Rufete Blanco
91

2018 Cuatro Rayas Cuarenta Vendimias, Rueda

( €8.50, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

The vines used to produce this impressive, well-priced Verdejo from the go-ahead Cuatro Rayas co-operative are “only” 40 years old, but that would be considered ancient in some parts of the world. Rich and almost exotic, with notes of lychee and white peach, some subtle oak from 20% barrel fermentation in 500-litre barrels and zesty, crunchy acidity.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-23Similar Wines: €5-10, Spain, White, Verdejo
93

2015 Cuatro Rayas Amador Diez Cuvée, Rueda

( €34.90, 13%, Available from the winery )

Made with a selection of the co-operative’s most venerable vineyards, this hails from plots that are all over 100 years’ old. It’s an oxidatively handled style that will appeal to fans of traditional white Rioja, with a mix of French and American oak, lots of toast and spices and flavours of pear, saffron and beeswax underpinned by salinity. Developing nicely in bottle.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-25Similar Wines: €30-40, 90-94, Spain, White, Verdejo
95

2017 Cuatro Rayas Amador Diez Cuvée, Rueda

( €29, 13%, Available from the winery )

One of the most ambitious Rueda whites, this comes from a selection of pre-phylloxera vineyards and is built to age. The oak is better integrated than on the 2015, which is also available in the market right now, supporting a wine with amazing intensity and focus. Nutty and intense, it has flavours of pear, citrus and marzipan, with undertones of fennel and cinnamon, good structure and racy, palate-cleansing acidity.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-29Similar Wines: €25-30, 95-100, Spain, White, Verdejo
92

2018 Pedro Parra Vinista País, Portezuelo, Itata Valley

( £15.99, 13%, Dronfield Wine World, Quality Wines, The Old Bridge Wine Shop, Vin Neuf, Vinvm )

Pedro Parra is best known as a French-trained ‘terroir specialist’ who consults to many of the top wineries in South America, but he is increasingly turning his weathered hands to producing his own wines. This deliciously refined País comes from a 100-year-old vineyard on granite soils in Portezuelo and will definitely appeal to fans of Pinot Noir. Pale, playful and refreshing, it has pomegranate and raspberry fruit, a hint of savoury tannin and a long, tangy finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-24Similar Wines: £15-20, 90-94, Chile, Red, País
93

2018 Kellerei Kurtatsch Schiava Sonntaler Alte Reben, Alto Adige

( £16.45, or £14.50 as part of a mixed case, 12.5%, Haynes Hanson and Clark )

I enthusiastically recommended the 2017 release of this wine, but I make no excuse for doing the same thing with the 2018. Schiava, otherwise known as Vernatsch, is the grape variety behind this wonderful, old-vine red from a brilliant co-operative in the Italian Alto Adige. Showing the Alpine freshness of a vineyard at 400 metres, it has top notes of rose petal and summer pudding, a core of redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit, racy, palate-tingling acidity, stony minerality and a long, textured, refined finish. Something to remind you of the last days of summer.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-25Similar Wines: £15-20, 90-94, Italy, Red, Schiava
93

2019 Kumeu River Village Hand Harvested Chardonnay, Kumeu

( £10.50, The Wine Society )

If Michael Brajkovich MW were a Burgundian rather than a New Zealander, he would be among the most celebrated white winemakers in the Côte de Beaune, right up there with the likes of Dominique Lafon, Pierre-Vves Colin Morey and Jean-Marc Roulot. The good news for us is that we can buy his amazing Chardonnays at ludicrously cheap prices. This is only his entry-point wine, but is typically well balanced, refreshing and focused, with just a hint of oak spice, leesy complexity, some struck match undertones and a chiselled, refreshing finish. A Kiwi wine that’s better than many Puligny-Montrachets.

BuySimilar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
90

2019 Pierre Jaurant Viognier, Languedoc-Roussillon

( £4.49, 13.5%, Aldi )

Aldi has a deserved reputation for sourcing very drinkable wines under £5 – much harder than you think given exorbitant duty rates in the UK  – but this is something else altogether. I’ve tasted much less exciting Viogniers at three times the price. Classically smooth and voluptuous, with flavours of peaches, cream and nectarine and just the right amount of supporting acidity. Outrageously good at the price.

BuyDrinking window: 2020-22Similar Wines: £4-5, 90-94, France, White, Viognier