White wine rising

by Christy Canterbury MW
Though the “ABC”, or “Anything But Chardonnay” campaign continues to rail against it, Chardonnay remains the favourite white grape of USA wine drinkers. It is also the planet’s most planted,...
92

2017 Feiler-Artinger Neuburger Trocken, Rust Am See, Burgenland

( £22.50, 13%, Tanners )

Neuburger is an extremely rare grape, even in its native Austria, with only 550 of the country’s 44,000 hectares, but Feiler-Artinger have made something of a specialty of the variety. This is wonderfully perfumed, with very understated oak, peachy, savoury, spicy flavours, plenty of weight and texture. It gives the impression of slight sweetness, but finishes dry, refreshing and well balanced. A wonderful curiosity.

BuyDrinking window: 2019-22Similar Wines: £20-£30, 90-94, Austria, White, Neuburger
88

2014 Weingut Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Morrison Signature, Niederösterreich

( £8, 12%, Morrisons )

It’s great to see an Austrian Grüner of this quality in a major supermarket. It’s not a power packed wine, but what it lacks in weight, it makes up for in freshness. Floral and medium weight, with some pepper spice, pear and citrus fruit flavours and a zesty, tangy finish. A really good food wine – and I don’t say that very often.

BuyDrinking window: 2015-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner

Newcomers on the scene

by Matt Walls
They wouldn’t have got past the elevator pitch in Dragons’ Den. “So you want to sell premium Austrian wines from a transport container in the East End of London?” summarises...

Rawfair steals the show

by Simon Woolf
It’s the third Monday in May. I’m in East London, in a barn of a building, buzzing with wine producers, press and trade. There’s a palpable sense of excitement throughout...
90

2011 Gut Oggau Theodore, Burgenland

( POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines )

Terrific freshness in this blend of Grüner Veltliner and Weissburgunder (AKA Pinot Blanc) – a beguiling hint of onion skin on the nose gives way to a creamy and slightly vegetal palate, and a mineral finish. This wine spent a few days on the skins, giving it just a bit more structure and body than you might expect.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner
89

2011 Gut Oggau Winifred, Burgenland

( POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines )

Made from a field blend of Bläufrankisch and Zweigelt, and with a wonderful burnished rose hue. There’s an exotic aroma of wild strawberries, and attractive herbaceous character to the lightweight fruit. Just when you think this might be another simplistic summer rosé, it builds to a more complex savoury finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, Rose
90

2010 Gut Oggau Atanasius, Burgenland

( POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines )

Although this is effectively Gut Oggau’s entry level red, there’s quite a serious intent to the dark leathery fruit aromas. The fruit is lively, with blackberries dominating the flavour. Elegant tannins lend gravitas to what is a fairly light style. Sandy/gravel soil.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, Red
93

2011 Gut Oggau Timotheus, Burgenland

( POA, 13%, Dynamic Wines )

Just like the caricature on the label, this is a big broad wine. White peaches, apricot and kiwi flavours are all brilliantly knitted together with a moreish creamy, nutty texture. Some skin contact and maturation in large, old oak barrels has provided body and structure.

It’s different enough to make you sit up and notice, without being remotely scary or “difficult”. Limestone soil.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-2020Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner
89

2011 Gut Oggau Emmeran, Burgenland

( POA, 13.5%, Dynamic Wines )

This is the only wine in the Gut Oggau range which defines itself by a single grape variety. There’s no mistaking the Gewurztraminer on the nose: delicate rose petal and intense lychee aromas dominate. The limestone soil has given this a satisfying “wet stone” finish. It’s bone dry, with just enough acidity to keep things fresh.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Austria, White, Gewürztraminer