90

2011 Gut Oggau Theodore, Burgenland

( POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines )

Terrific freshness in this blend of Grüner Veltliner and Weissburgunder (AKA Pinot Blanc) – a beguiling hint of onion skin on the nose gives way to a creamy and slightly vegetal palate, and a mineral finish. This wine spent a few days on the skins, giving it just a bit more structure and body than you might expect.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner
89

2011 Gut Oggau Winifred, Burgenland

( POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines )

Made from a field blend of Bläufrankisch and Zweigelt, and with a wonderful burnished rose hue. There’s an exotic aroma of wild strawberries, and attractive herbaceous character to the lightweight fruit. Just when you think this might be another simplistic summer rosé, it builds to a more complex savoury finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, Rose
90

2010 Gut Oggau Atanasius, Burgenland

( POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines )

Although this is effectively Gut Oggau’s entry level red, there’s quite a serious intent to the dark leathery fruit aromas. The fruit is lively, with blackberries dominating the flavour. Elegant tannins lend gravitas to what is a fairly light style. Sandy/gravel soil.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, Red
95

2007 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve, Kremstal

( £45, 12.5%, Berry Bros & Rudd )

This brilliant biodynamic estate is based in the Wachau on the “wrong” side of the Danube, but this wine hails from vineyards in neighbouring Kremstal. It’s an incredible Riesling: intense, focused and minerally with remarkable texture, density and concentration. Honey, white flowers and a stony undertow, with spice, creamy lees and a finish that lasts for minutes. The wine will develop for at least another decade in bottle.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-20Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner

A ferment about Furmint

by Matt Walls
To be sung to the tune of ‘Start Wearing Purple’ by Gogol Bordello: “Start drinking Furmint drinking Furmint, Start drinking Furmint for me now, All your sanity – and wits...