Just like the caricature on the label, this is a big broad wine. White peaches, apricot and kiwi flavours are all brilliantly knitted together with a moreish creamy, nutty texture. Some skin contact and maturation in large, old oak barrels has provided body and structure.
It’s different enough to make you sit up and notice, without being remotely scary or “difficult”. Limestone soil.
BuyDrinking window: 2013-2020Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner
This is the only wine in the Gut Oggau range which defines itself by a single grape variety. There’s no mistaking the Gewurztraminer on the nose: delicate rose petal and intense lychee aromas dominate. The limestone soil has given this a satisfying “wet stone” finish. It’s bone dry, with just enough acidity to keep things fresh.
BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Austria, White, Gewürztraminer
Joshuari shows the slightly nervy side of Blaufränkisch, with rather tight but elegant berry fruit. Like all of Gut Oggau’s wines, it tastes terrifically fresh, with fruit pips and minerality on the finish.
BuyDrinking window: 2013-2018Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Austria, Red
Mechtild is one of two single vineyard wines made at Gut Oggau, in this case 60 year old Grüner Veltliner. There’s a salty, iodine tang on the nose, yielding to a fat, creamy palate. Fresh acidity and a lovely mineral finish.
BuyDrinking window: 2012-2015Similar Wines: £50-£100, 86-90, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner
For me this is the crowning glory of the Gut Oggau range. Single vineyard Blaufränkisch is left on its stems and stalks for 6 weeks, resulting in a structured, complex, yet impressively balanced wine. “Hot”, rubber-tyre character to the nose, very focused ripe yet elegant red fruit. The finish lasts and lasts, staying fresh and slightly saline to the very end.
BuyDrinking window: 2012-2022Similar Wines: £50-£100, 91-95, Austria, Red
Terrific freshness in this blend of Grüner Veltliner and Weissburgunder (AKA Pinot Blanc) – a beguiling hint of onion skin on the nose gives way to a creamy and slightly vegetal palate, and a mineral finish. This wine spent a few days on the skins, giving it just a bit more structure and body than you might expect.
BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, White, Grüner Veltliner
Made from a field blend of Bläufrankisch and Zweigelt, and with a wonderful burnished rose hue. There’s an exotic aroma of wild strawberries, and attractive herbaceous character to the lightweight fruit. Just when you think this might be another simplistic summer rosé, it builds to a more complex savoury finish.
BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, Rose
Although this is effectively Gut Oggau’s entry level red, there’s quite a serious intent to the dark leathery fruit aromas. The fruit is lively, with blackberries dominating the flavour. Elegant tannins lend gravitas to what is a fairly light style. Sandy/gravel soil.
BuyDrinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Austria, Red