Floral testimony

by Matt Walls
In the car park on my street there is a rose bush. Every so often when walking past I pause to cup one of the red flowers in my hand,...

2011 Gut Oggau Emmeran, Burgenland

( POA, 13.5%, Dynamic Wines )

This is the only wine in the Gut Oggau range which defines itself by a single grape variety. There’s no mistaking the Gewurztraminer on the nose: delicate rose petal and intense lychee aromas dominate. The limestone soil has given this a satisfying “wet stone” finish. It’s bone dry, with just enough acidity to keep things fresh.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Austria, White, Gewürztraminer

2011 Valle Pradinhos Branco, Transmontano

( £10.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

It’s remarkable to discover that Rui Cunha’s innovative white blend of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Malvasia Fina comes from the Upper Douro, a region usually better known for full-throated reds. But there you go. This tastes as good as it looks: spicy and aromatic with a hint of Burgundian style struck match, notes of lime and ginger, plenty of minerality and a long, nuanced finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Portugal, White, Gewürztraminer, Malvasia Fina, Riesling

2007 Concha y Toro, Otorio Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Maule Valley

( £6.99, 12%, Tesco, www.tesco.com )

It’s comparatively rare to find Sauvignon Blanc made as a sweet wine on its own (as opposed to blended with Semillon), but this value-for-money sticky from Chile suggests that the grape is well suited to these styles. Honey and quince with an undertone of pink grapefruit.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Chile, White, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc

2011 Domaine Paul Blanck Gewurztraminer, Alsace

( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13.5%, Waitrose )

Produced close to the village of Kientzheim, this is a very stylish Alsace Gewürz, with none of the oilyness that can affect the variety. Gentle spice, with lovely acidity, rose petal fragrance and a brisk, refreshing, ginger-like finish. Try this with a washed rind cheese. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Gewürztraminer

2011 Oliver Conti Treyu, Empordà

( E7, 12.5%, El Celler Petit )

It’s easy to judge the white wines from Oliver Conti too young, even this unoaked cuvée of Macebeu and Gewürztraminer. This combines perfume, spice, fresh acidity and a touch of grapeskin bitterness on the palate, underpinned by some creamy, lees-derived fatness. It’s an unusual wine, with the Gewürz adding some ginger spice to the Macabeu. Try cellaring it. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, White, Gewürztraminer, Macabeo

Alsace and the meaning of tradition

by Tim Atkin
The wine world thrives on novelty: new vintages, new flavours, new producers. In some ways, this is both understandable and necessary. Creating a bit of sizzle around a category that,...

My Dream Cellar

by Tim Atkin
Imagine, just for one minute, that you were richer than Bill Gates: more loaded than a Hollywood film star, Warren Buffett and a Russian oligarch put together. Which wines would...

My top dozen wines from the Biodyvin tasting

by Tim Atkin
2007 Domaine Bott-Geyl Gewurztraminer d’Alsace Grand Cru Sonnenglantz (available from OW Loeb)One of a series of stunning wines from this outstanding Colmar-based domaine. Spicy and complex, with real intenstity and...