91

2022 Cramele Recas Orange Natural Wine, Romania

( £10.99, 12.5%, Adnams, Hennings Wine Merchants, Tanners, The Vintage Wine Merchants )

The kind of natural, skin-contact wine that’s a pleasure to drink – not always the case, alas – this is a four-way, pan-Romanian assemblage of Fetească Regală, Muscat Ottonel, Riesling and Pinot Grigio, showing admirable freshness for a wine that was made without added sulphites. Musk, brioche and white flower aromas are a scented introduction to a palate of orange zest, rose water, citrus and quince and a touch of tannic grip.

BuyDrinking window: 2023-25Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Romania, White, Fetească Regală, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Grigio, Riesling
90

2020 Incanta Pinot Noir, Romania

( £6.49, 12.5%, Majestic )

Given the high prices of top red Burgundy these days, we Pinot Noir lovers are always on the lookout for more affordable examples of our favourite red grape. Chile is a good place to start, but I don’t think it can compete with the quality of this Romanian red. Sourced as an exclusive parcel for Majestic, it tastes as good as it looks. Racy, supple and perfumed, with raspberry, pomegranate and wild strawberry flavours, tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins. Remarkable at £6.49.

BuyDrinking window: 2022-26Similar Wines: £5-£10, 90-94, Romania, Red, Pinot Noir

Floral testimony

by Matt Walls
In the car park on my street there is a rose bush. Every so often when walking past I pause to cup one of the red flowers in my hand,...

Romania: getting back on its horse

by Matt Walls
Standing at the baggage carousel in Timişoara Airport in western Romania, I was approached by a friendly fellow traveller. “You here for the IW Conference too?” he said. “Erm… International...
87

2011 Cramele Recas Paparuda Pinot Noir

( £5.70, 13.5%, Adnams )

This is the first wine I’ve ever reviewed on this site from Romania, but it’s a gift to Pinot Noir lovers. Quite simply, this is the best cheap example of the grape in the world. There’s a hint of smoky oak (from a chip or a stave, no doubt), but it’s the fruit that really sings: cherry stone and raspberry with supple tannins and a core of sweetness. Not complex, but bright, cheerful and very drinkable. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Romania, Red, Pinot Noir