91

2022 Cramele Recas Orange Natural Wine, Romania

( £10.99, 12.5%, Adnams, Hennings Wine Merchants, Tanners, The Vintage Wine Merchants )

The kind of natural, skin-contact wine that’s a pleasure to drink – not always the case, alas – this is a four-way, pan-Romanian assemblage of Fetească Regală, Muscat Ottonel, Riesling and Pinot Grigio, showing admirable freshness for a wine that was made without added sulphites. Musk, brioche and white flower aromas are a scented introduction to a palate of orange zest, rose water, citrus and quince and a touch of tannic grip.

BuyDrinking window: 2023-25Similar Wines: £10-15, 90-94, Romania, White, Fetească Regală, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Grigio, Riesling
90

2012 Mavum Pinot Grigio/Pinot Nero, Veneto

( £9.50, 12.5%, Amp Fine Wines, Hennings Wine Merchants )

Pinot Grigio and Pinot Nero are very close genetically, so why not combine them in a white wine, vinifying the latter without its skins? The result is rather tasty, with aromatic, Golden Delicious apple, pear and quince notes, and just a hint of wild strawberry. Unoaked, refined and well balanced, this is a real find for less than £10.

Drinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, White, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris/Grigio
92

2008 Bodegas Ochoa, Mil Gracias Graciano, Navarra

( £11.99, 13.5%, Hennings Wine Merchants )

Graciano is more readily associated with neighbouring Rioja (and then only in small quantities) than Navarra, but this one from the youthful Adriana Ochoa is superb. It’s almost Italian in style, with marked acidity, some spice and a fair bit of tannin, but there’s some black cherry and bramble fruit to add sweetness and flesh to the bones. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Red, Graciano