2012 was on the smallest vintages on record in Burgundy, but quality was high, even in “lesser” regions, such as the Chalonnaise. This lightly oaked, harmonious Chardonnay is fresh and crisp, with notes of nutmeg spice and citrus peel and a tangy, chalky undertone. Great value. And it will age well, too.
Price Range: £10-£20
2013 Valdo Oro Puro Porosecco Superiore NV, Valdobbiadene
( £12.99 down to £9.75, 11%, Waitrose )There’s an ocean of chearp Prosecco on the market at the moment, but it’s worth trading up a bit to get hold of something with more concentration and flavour. This is light and fruity (as you’d expect), with peach and pear fruitiness, but there’s some appealing spice in the background, too, supported by a cushion of soft bubbles. Very gluggable.
2007 Waitrose Sauternes, Château Suduiraut
( £16.99 down to £12.74 per half, 14%, Waitrose )It’s something of a coup for Waitrose to source their own label Sauternes from the First Growth property of Château Suduiraut. The result is a very classy dessert wine with the emphasis on botrytis-affected Semillon with a dash of Sauvignon Blanc. The oak is deftly handled here, adding a spicy nuance to the flavours and aromas of honey, beeswax and crème brûlée. The intense sweetness is balanced by just the right amount of acidity.
2013 Domaine du Bourg, Les Graviers, Frédéric Mabileau, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Loire Valley
( £13.99 down to £10.50, 12.41%, Waitrose )If you’re a fan of light, charming, grassy Cabernet Franc from the Loire, look no further than this unoaked stunner from Frédéric Mabileau. It’s appealingly scented, with aromas of cut grass, dill and pencil shavings, a supple, charming palate and bright, crunchy acidity. It tastes even better chilled.
2012 The Society's Albariño, Rías Baixas
( £12.95, 13%, The Wine Society )If you’re going to use one winery as your source of house Albariño, Pazo de Señorans is a great choice. This is weighty and concentrated by local standards, showing aromas of lime blossom and fresh straw, crisp, apple and citrus fruit and an undertone of stony minerality. Long and very stylish.
2009 The Liberator (This Bird Has Flown), Swartland
( £11.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )This Cape blend of Chenin, Viognier, Chardonnay and Clairetter Blanche won’t be to everyone’s taste – it’s got some age to it and a developed, Sherry-like not – but I salute its ambiiton and left field flavours. Rich and honeyed, with some vanilla and nutmeg spice, fresh acidity and bags of concentration. Appealingly funky.
2010 Spice Route Chakalaka, The Swartland
( £12.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )This isn’t the most expensive brands in the full-flavoured Spice Route range, but it’s often one of my favourite reds from this innovative winery. It’s an appealing combo of no fewer than six grapes, with lots of sweet vanilla oak, spicy clove and nutmeg and a mixture of bramble, red berry and blackberry fruit intensity. Needs a barbecue to show at its best.
2011 Guímaro Mencia, Ribeira Sacra
( £10.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )Made entirely from the Mencia grape (think Tempranaillo crossed with Cabernet France in style) this is a perfumed, refreshing red that carries its 14.5% alcohol without any apparent struggle. Pepper spicy and aromatic, with notes of wild thyme and lavender, this unoaked, faintly chewy red is a delight. Great with roast lamb.
2011 Tanners Mosel Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
( £10.95, 11%, Tanners )The supplier for Tanners’ impressive own-label Mosel Riesling Kabinett is none other than the Max Ferd. Richter winery, which is something of a coup. The result is delicious. It’s at the lower end of the sweetness scale (at 27 grams per litre), showing 11% alcohol and a comparatviely “dry” finish. Youthful and zingy, with a touch of carbon dioxide and racy, palate-tingling acidity.
2009 Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Clos de les Dòmines, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 14.5% )Grassy, concentrated blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena from an ambitious co-operative. The tannins are a tad firm, but this is a serious, cassis-scented red with fresh acidity and a hint of greenness.
2012 Celler d’en Guilla, Vinya del Metge, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 13% )Pale, Provence-style rosé in a stylish package, this brings the Côte d’Azur to the Costa Brava. A tangy, food friendly rosé with subtle, rosehip and raspberry fruit and good, underlying acidity. Very drinkable.
2007 Arché Pagès, Cartesius, Empordà, Empordà
( €11, 15.5% )The alcohol is a little high here, but this cuvée of Grenache and Cabernet has aged extremely well, showing notes of wild herbs, mint and sweet red fruits with a subtle undertone of oak. Very stylish, very drinkable.