92

2013 Domaine Jones, Les Perles de Jones Carignan Vieilles Vignes, Vin de France, Languedoc Roussillon

( £18.50, 14.5%, www.domainejones.com )

Carignan is one of those under-rated grapes that can make fantastic wines if the vines are old and grown in a propitious terroir. This is on the ripe side, but it’s not top heavy in the slightest. Damson and blueberry fruit flavours are complemented by minerality and acidity and a wild herb-like note. Surprisingly refreshing for a wine of this ripeness. 

BuyDrinking window: 2016-19Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Carignan
95

2010 Nyetimber Tillington Single Vineyard, Kent

( £60-80, 12% )

An ambitious – and ambitiously priced – single vineyard blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the producer that continues to lead the English sparkling wine revolution. The bubbles are particularly fine here, the low dosage beautifully judged, the acidity refreshing and citrus-edged, while the bready, leesy, autolysis-influenced flavours linger tantalisingly on the tongue. Classy stuff. 

BuyDrinking window: 2016-20Similar Wines: £50-£100, 91-95, England, Sparkling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
92

2013 Domaine Jones, Fitou, Languedoc Roussillon

( £13.50, 14.5%, The Wine Society )

Once upon a time, I used to own a bit of vineyard land in Fitou. I just wish I’d done something as useful with it as Katie Jones has. This blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah is all about perfume and dark, sun-kissed fruit, constructed around a core of freshness and stony minerality. One of the most exciting Fitous I’ve tasted in years. 

Drinking window: NowSimilar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Carignan, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz
89

2010 All Saints Estate Marsanne, Victoria

( £14.9, 12.2%, Cockburn & Campbell )

A light, refreshing, herbal, honeysuckle-scented Marsanne from All Saints, favouring mealy, citrus fruit over oak influence. The wine is tangy and well-balanced, light enough to enjoy as an aperitif as well as with food. Experience shows that Victorian Marsannes age extremely well. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-20Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, White, Marsanne
88

2010 All Saints Estate Durif, Victoria

( £16.00, 14%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Made from the comparatively rare Durif (aka Petite Sirah) grape variety, this carries its 14% alcohol with ease and seems much ligher than that on the palate. The All Saints hallmarks of freshenss and balance are attractively expressed here. There’s plum, some nutmeg spice, a nip of dry tannin and bright, almost Italianate acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Red, Durif
95

NV All Saints Grand Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria

( £40, 18%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Wow! When Aussie stickies are as good as this, they are some of the greatest fortified wines in the world. This ambre-hued, mature, non vintage Muscat is a stunner, all dates and rose petal, with a hint of Oloroso Sherry. Treacle, molasses, unctuous sweetness and a finish that goes on for ever. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-25Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, Australia, Fortified, Muscat à Petits Grains
97

NV All Saints Grand Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria

( £75, 18%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Rare sums it up. It’s not often that I’m reduced to silent contemplation, but that happened here. This is a tresure of a wine, one to be sipped and supped and drooled over. Incredibly perfumed, rose petal and rancio aromas sashay intocomplex, nut fig and walnut flavours on the palate. Decadent, complex, concentrated and intense. Essence of Rutherglen. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-25Similar Wines: £50-£100, 96-100, Australia, Fortified, Muscat à Petits Grains
91

NV All Saints Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria

( £13.5, 17%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Sweet, floral, rosepetal notes on the nose, followed by youthful, high toned, fig and molasses on the palate. This is quite a young style of Muscat (relatively speaking, of course), but it’s delightfully poised and fragrant with a luscious, sweet, mouth-coating texture and good length. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-20Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Australia, Fortified, Muscat à Petits Grains
91

2005 CVNE Viña Real Gran Reserva, Alavesa, Rioja

( £21.49, 13.5%, Majestic )

A much more modern style than we’ve grown accustomed to from CVNE in recent years, this is youthful and vigorous for a Gran Reserva, with the emphasis on vibrant Tempranillo fruit. The freshness of the Alavesa vineyards is really evident on the palate. This is refreshing and fine, with sweet oak, medium weight tannins and nuanced red and black fruits flavours. An interesting change of tack by CVNE. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Spain, Red, Graciano, Tempranillo
90

2011 Monemvasia Kidonitsa, Laconia

( £11.50, 13%, Bowes Wine )

The Kidonitsa grape may be new to you (you’re not alone there), but don’t worry about that because it’s a great drink. Spritzy and slightly honeyed, with the texture of a Pinot Gris but an extra dimension of flavour. A touch of straw, some ginger spice, a whisper of thyme. You can almost smell the Med. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Greece, White, Other Whites