Floral testimony
by Matt Walls
In the car park on my street there is a rose bush. Every so often when walking past I pause to cup one of the red flowers in my hand,...
White Varietal: Muscat à Petits Grains
NV Torres Florales Moscatel Oro, Penedès
( £10, 15%, Fareham Wine Cellar, Waitrose, Winedirect )A rich, even heady expression of the Moscatel (Muscat) grape, this is luscious and palate-coating, with flavours of orange peel, dried fruits and beeswax and spirity note that complements rather than overwhelms the wine. Sweet and complex, it’s really good with full-flavoured desserts.
2013 G.D. Vajra, Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont
( £12, 5.5%, Liberty Wines )How many wines make you want to start dancing? I love the perfumed frivolity of this wine. Sweet, frothy and perfumed, it’s a wonderful expression of the Moscato grape. The alcohol is low, the flavours are fresh and aromatic. What’s not to like? Try it with a bowl of strawberries.
2013 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Muscat, Itata Valley
( £10-15, 12.5%, Les Caves de Pyrene )De Martino’s Viejas Tinajas project is producing some of Chile’s most interesting wines at the moment. This savoury, aromatic white has a touch of grapeskin bitterness to it that adds structure as well as a layer of complexity. It’s not a typical Muscat by any means: you can taste the grapey notes of the variety but they are subtle and restrained rather than overt.
2012 Chartreuse de Mourgères Le Pèlerin Blanc, Pays de Caux
( £6.25, 12.5%, The Wine Society )The grapes for this blend of Sauvignon, Vermentino and a hint of grapey Muscat come from land formerly owned by a Carthusian monastery in the Languedoc. It’s certainly an unusual wine with notes of wild herbs and flowers and a slight sweetness that reminds you of acacia honey. The Muscat adds an oily richness to the crisp frame.
2012 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Essència de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €7, 16.5% )Youthful, fortified Muscat showing a hint of spirit and floral, grapey fruit flavours. An easy-drinking, dessert style that would work well as an aperitif.
NV Martí Fabra, Masia Pairal Can Carreras, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Grapey, sweet, fortified Muscat with a slight alcoholic burn, this has notes of citrus and spice and marked acidity on the finish.
2010 Joncària Moscat Barrica, Pere Guardiola, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13% )A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters. The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with something spicy.
2011 Flor d’Albera, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 13% )An unusual, barrel-fermented Muscat from Joan Fabra that isn’t overwhelmed by splinters. Soft and grapey, with hints of honey and white flowers and a hint of bitterness.
Forbidden Fruit
by Matt Walls
If Jesus had chosen something other than the fruit of the vine for his followers to worship him with, today’s wine lovers might have a harder time indulging their hobby....
2011 Domaine de Paparotier Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Rhône Valley
( £8.99 down to £6.74, 15%, Marks & Spencer )If you’ve got a sweet tooth but don’t want to spend more than £10 on a bottle of something special for Christmas, this southern Rhône fortified ticks all the right boxes. It’s a very elegant style, wtih subtle fortification, aromas of wild flowers, honey and peach and a refreshing finish that doesn’t cloy in the slightest.
NV All Saints Grand Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria
( £40, 18%, Cockburn & Campbell )Wow! When Aussie stickies are as good as this, they are some of the greatest fortified wines in the world. This ambre-hued, mature, non vintage Muscat is a stunner, all dates and rose petal, with a hint of Oloroso Sherry. Treacle, molasses, unctuous sweetness and a finish that goes on for ever.