A high-toned blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of structure and tannin. Not the subtlest wine in the world, with flavours that are starting to turn a little pruney. Pricey, too.
Score Range: 81-85
2009 Celler Brugarol, Bell Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A different blend and a different vintage, showing some reduction, a touch of sweet oak, medium weight tannins and refreshing acidity. Once more, I’d like more fruit and weight on the palate.
2010 Can Sais, Selecció, Baix Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 15% )A Merlot, Grenache and Tempranillo blend showing some reduction and slightly baked, extracted aromas and flavours. A little chewy and dry, this is a wine that needs more fruit sweetness for balance.
2012 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Essència de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €7, 16.5% )Youthful, fortified Muscat showing a hint of spirit and floral, grapey fruit flavours. An easy-drinking, dessert style that would work well as an aperitif.
2012 Cooperatiu agricola Gariguella, Puntils, Emporda, Empordà
( €4, 13.5% )Combining Tempranillo, Garnatxa and Merlot, this is a grassy, strawberry-scented red with refreshing acidity. It’s a little developed perhaps, but at €4 who’s complaining?
2012 Mas Romeu, Malesa Rosat, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 12.5% )A pale-coloured rosado with marked acidity, slightly lacking in concentration with a touch of oxidation and a bitter finish. Needs more weight and fruit.
2012 Clos de les Dòmines Reserva, Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Emporda, Empordà
( €9, 13.5% )An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
2012 Nivia, Mas Llunes, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13.5% )A pure Garnatxa Blanca that is still showing its oaky shell. Savoury/sweet with assertive, toasty oak and some bitterness. Decently made, but the oak seems a little too intrusive, at least for now.
2012 Fitó, Mas Romeu, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 12% )A rare Emporda Chardonnay, with only 500 bottles made. Banana notes, with some vanilla and custard cream and good acidity, with an undertone of wild mushroom. Well made, but why produce Chardonnay here?
2011 Changyu Cabernet/Gernischt, Ningxia, China
( £9.99, 12.5%, Waitrose )One of the more drinkable Chinese wines to cross my tasting bench, this is a quaffable, sweetish blend with slighty angular acidity and pleasant cassis and red cherry fruit. Not masively (or even slightly) complex, but certainly drinkable.
2009 Guillemard-Clerc, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Showing some development already. On the nose and palate, this is rather old-fashioned in style, exhibiting notes of dead leaves, some meaty reduction and simple tomato skin flavours. A poor show for a Grand Cru Burgundy.
2009 R. Dubois, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Mid-ruby/garnet. Youthful, but also on the over-ripe side. The sample I tasted was showing some oxidation and pruneyness. Curranty, slightly bitter with lots of oak. Rather four square. Maybe it was a bad sample?