90

2013 Mission Estate Winery, Riesling, Hawkes Bay

( £11.50, 11.5%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Made in an off-dry style that is typical of New Zealand, this has impressive concentration and depth of flavour. It’s perfumed and floral, with the fruit sweetness balanced by acidity and freshness. Lime and toast are the dominant flavours here with a hint of tannin on the finish. 

Drinking window: 2014-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, New Zealand, White, Riesling
88

2010 All Saints Estate Durif, Victoria

( £16.00, 14%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Made from the comparatively rare Durif (aka Petite Sirah) grape variety, this carries its 14% alcohol with ease and seems much ligher than that on the palate. The All Saints hallmarks of freshenss and balance are attractively expressed here. There’s plum, some nutmeg spice, a nip of dry tannin and bright, almost Italianate acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Red, Durif
95

NV All Saints Grand Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria

( £40, 18%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Wow! When Aussie stickies are as good as this, they are some of the greatest fortified wines in the world. This ambre-hued, mature, non vintage Muscat is a stunner, all dates and rose petal, with a hint of Oloroso Sherry. Treacle, molasses, unctuous sweetness and a finish that goes on for ever. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-25Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, Australia, Fortified, Muscat à Petits Grains
97

NV All Saints Grand Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria

( £75, 18%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Rare sums it up. It’s not often that I’m reduced to silent contemplation, but that happened here. This is a tresure of a wine, one to be sipped and supped and drooled over. Incredibly perfumed, rose petal and rancio aromas sashay intocomplex, nut fig and walnut flavours on the palate. Decadent, complex, concentrated and intense. Essence of Rutherglen. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-25Similar Wines: £50-£100, 96-100, Australia, Fortified, Muscat à Petits Grains
91

NV All Saints Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria

( £13.5, 17%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Sweet, floral, rosepetal notes on the nose, followed by youthful, high toned, fig and molasses on the palate. This is quite a young style of Muscat (relatively speaking, of course), but it’s delightfully poised and fragrant with a luscious, sweet, mouth-coating texture and good length. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-20Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Australia, Fortified, Muscat à Petits Grains
89

2010 All Saints Estate Marsanne, Victoria

( £14.9, 12.2%, Cockburn & Campbell )

A light, refreshing, herbal, honeysuckle-scented Marsanne from All Saints, favouring mealy, citrus fruit over oak influence. The wine is tangy and well-balanced, light enough to enjoy as an aperitif as well as with food. Experience shows that Victorian Marsannes age extremely well. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-20Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, White, Marsanne