90

2009 Château Marsyas, Békaa Valley

( £££, 14.2%, Contact the winery for details )

An impressive Lebanese blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, which benefits from the consultancy of Bordeaux’s celebrated Stéphane Derononcourt. The high altitude of the vines (900 metres) is reflected in the freshness of the wine, which has notes of honey and cinnamon, a twist of orange peel and a long, well-balanced aftertaste.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: Â£10-£20, 86-90, Lebanon, White, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
89

NV Freixenet, Elyssia Gran Cuvée, Cava

( £14.99, 11.5%, Waitrose )

Freixenet was opposed to “”international varieties” for many years, but I’m glad it has relented, because this is a very well made blend of Pinot and Chardonnay. Savoury and dry, with a Cava-like twist, it’s palate-tinglingly fresh and long. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: Â£10-£20, 86-90, Spain, Sparkling, Macabeo
90

2010 Los Molles Carmenère, Limari

( £9.99, 14%, Marks & Spencer )

Maybe I’m finally coming round to Carmenère, Chile’s USP. This hails from coastal Limari (it’s sourced from the Tabali winery) and has more freshness than most examples. It’s typically deep in colour, with notes of mint, blackcurrant pastille and plum, overlaid with sweet chocolatey oak and a zesty, grassy finish. Good now and should develop in bottle, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: Â£5-£10, 86-90, Chile, Red
87

2011 Simply Garnacha, Campo de Borja

( £4.59, 13.5%, Tesco )

It’s not easy to find really good glugging reds under £5 any more, but the Campo de Borja region in northern Spain would be my first port of call. This unoaked example from Bodegas Borsao is juicy, brambly and full of raspberry and redcurrant fruit. Soft and supple: pure, uncomplicated pleasure.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, Spain, Red, Grenache
87

2011 The Society's Australian Chardonnay, McLaren Vale, South Australia

( £6.50, 12.5%, The Wine Society )

It’s a measure of how far Aussie Chardonnay has advanced in recent years, that even a Chardonnay from warmer climate McLaren Vale is light-bodied and unoaked. This is appealingly dry with flavours of stone fruit and a bite of lemon zest-like acidity.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: Â£5-£10, 86-90, Australia, White, Chardonnay