Mature, full-flavoured blend of Garnatxa and Cariñena, showing rich, liquoricey fruit flavours, notes of dried figs and herbs, some spirit and a fiery finish. Dry and a little too hot, this should be drunk now.
2012 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Essència de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €7, 16.5% )Youthful, fortified Muscat showing a hint of spirit and floral, grapey fruit flavours. An easy-drinking, dessert style that would work well as an aperitif.
2009 Terra Remota, Usted, Empordà, Empordà
( €100, 15% )Very serious, very ambitious, but so it should be at the price. This blend of Syrah and Grenache shows flavours of sweet red fruits, vanilla spice and liquorice with stylish, smooth tannins, superb balance and a slightly dry finish.
2006 Castillo Perelada, Finca Garbet, Empordà, Empordà
( €100 , 14.5% )The most photographed vineyard in Catalunya (and one of the most ambitiously priced), this is minty, herbal and surprisingly youthful for a 2006. Syrah with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, showing lots of oak, sweet fruit and a firm finish. An ambitious wine that should age further in bottle.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 1/09 Samsó Pissarra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )As its name suggests, this is grown on slate soils. It’s a single vineyard Cariñena with impressive elegance and refreshing acidity to balance the high alcohol. Textured, spicy and very Mediterranean with notes of wild thyme and fennel.
2009 Terra Remota, Clos Adrien, Empordà, Empordà
( €40 , 15% )A rich, slightly figgy blend of Syrah and Grenache with spicy oak, firm tannins and notes of rosemary and thyme. Rich and dense, with a slightly drying finish. The alcohol is a little marked on the finish.
2010 Arché Pagès, Ull de Serp, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15.5% )A single-vineyard Garnatxa made in a ripe, slightly raisiny style with firm tannins and marked alcohol. Well made, but I can’t see this improving in the bottle. A little dry, with too much oak for the weight of fruit.
2010 Vinyes dels Aspres, S’Alou, Empordà, Empordà
( €25, 15% )The top wine from this outstanding bodega, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cariñena and very impressive it is, too. Sweet, vanilla oak, red fruits, subtle spice, with white pepper and a savoury flourish.
2008 Arché Pagès, Bonfill, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )Attractive, oak-tinged blend of Grenache, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a modern, aromatic, still-youthful blend with refreshing acidity, harmonious tannins, appealing sweetness and a long, tapering finish. Very complex.
2006 Empordàlia, Antima, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 14.5% )A big improvement on the 2005 from this co-op, this is brighter, fresher and more alive. It’s a little dry and rustic, but there’s appealing fruit sweetness beneath it: figgy, yet surprisingly youthful, with bramble and blackberry fruit.
Castillo Perelada, Ex Ex 9, Empordà 2010/2011, Empordà
( €50, 14.5% )Ex ex stands exceptional experiences, apparently, with this being the ninth release under this label. Aromatic, alcoholic and eucalyptus-perfumed, this is a revolutionary blend of Sangiovese and Nero d’Avola with bright acidity, medium tannins and good structure, with vanilla oak adding an extra layer of flavour.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.