By the hot house standards of the Swartland, this is a light and comparatively elegant red blend of mostly Shiraz with some Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Viognier. It’s a scented, unoaked style with some pepper spice, raspberry and red cherry fruit and refreshing acidity.
2009 Terra Remota, Clos Adrien, Empordà, Empordà
( €40 , 15% )A rich, slightly figgy blend of Syrah and Grenache with spicy oak, firm tannins and notes of rosemary and thyme. Rich and dense, with a slightly drying finish. The alcohol is a little marked on the finish.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 2/09 Samsó Sorra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )This is sourced from sandy soils, but it’s another single vineyard, old vine Cariñena. Richer, denser and more oxidative in style, this is figgy and slightly dry with a balsamic undertone. More tannic, too.
2006 Castillo Perelada, Finca Garbet, Empordà, Empordà
( €100 , 14.5% )The most photographed vineyard in Catalunya (and one of the most ambitiously priced), this is minty, herbal and surprisingly youthful for a 2006. Syrah with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, showing lots of oak, sweet fruit and a firm finish. An ambitious wine that should age further in bottle.
2009 Terra Remota, Usted, Empordà, Empordà
( €100, 15% )Very serious, very ambitious, but so it should be at the price. This blend of Syrah and Grenache shows flavours of sweet red fruits, vanilla spice and liquorice with stylish, smooth tannins, superb balance and a slightly dry finish.
2012 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Essència de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €7, 16.5% )Youthful, fortified Muscat showing a hint of spirit and floral, grapey fruit flavours. An easy-drinking, dessert style that would work well as an aperitif.
2005 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Dolç de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 16.5% )Mature, full-flavoured blend of Garnatxa and Cariñena, showing rich, liquoricey fruit flavours, notes of dried figs and herbs, some spirit and a fiery finish. Dry and a little too hot, this should be drunk now.
NV Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Garnatxa Sol i Serena, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 15.5% )Traditional, oxidative, tawny Port meets Oloroso Sherry style with marked sweetness and developed, rancio notes. Nutty, figgy fruit flavours with some crème caramel notes and aged complexity.
NV Pere Guardiola, Torre de Capmany Gran Reserva, Emporda, Empordà
( €15, 15% )Mature, concentrated, figgy fortified style made in a tawny, barrel-aged style. The volatility is quite marked here, but it’s a complex, aged style with nutty, almond and rancio flavours and impressive, Christmas cake complexity
2004 Vinyes dels Aspres, Bac de les Ginesteres, Emporda, Empordà
( €25 (37.5cl), 14.5% )Savoury, spicy, complex, mature, espresso notes with some sun-dried rancio complexity and Tokaj like acidity. Hazelnut and dried fruits, with complexity that builds on the palate. Complex, Sherry-like notes. Superb.
NV Martí Fabra, Masia Pairal Can Carreras, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Grapey, sweet, fortified Muscat with a slight alcoholic burn, this has notes of citrus and spice and marked acidity on the finish.
NV Can Carreras, Garnatxa de L’Emporda, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Complex, mature, figgy fortified, with notes of hazelnut and crème caramel, a touch of sweetness, some rancio flavours and a dry, tapering finish. Very complex, very long, with integrated spirit notes.