Made entirely from the Mencia grape (think Tempranaillo crossed with Cabernet France in style) this is a perfumed, refreshing red that carries its 14.5% alcohol without any apparent struggle. Pepper spicy and aromatic, with notes of wild thyme and lavender, this unoaked, faintly chewy red is a delight. Great with roast lamb.
2012 Fairtrade Argentine Malbec, Famatina Valley, La Rioja
( £6.99, 13%, The Co-operative )Stop press! This is the best Fairtrade wine I’ve had yet from Argentina and one of the best I’ve had from anywhere, too. Sourced from La Rioja (nothing to do with the Spanish region of the same name), it’s very, very aromatic, with wafts of liquourice and violets, a hint of spice and deeply coloured, textured bramble and blackberry fruit. The tannins are plush and sweet, with subtle use of oak. Bravo!
2011 João Portugal Ramos F'Oz, Alentejo
( £9.99, 14%, Waitrose )The Alentejo is becoming more and more impressive with each vintage as a source of southern Portugal’s best red wines. This great value, under-a-tenner blend of Aragonez (aka Tempranillo), Trincadeira and Castelão is a case in point. It’s aromatic and refreshing, with no sign of sun-baked, raisiny flavours, fine tannins, notes of chocolate, black cherry and plum and a firm, but well balanced finish.
2011 Tanners Douro Red, Douro Valley
( £7.95, 13%, Tanners )Produced for Tanners by the impressive winemaking duo of João Portugal Ramos and José-Maria Soares Franco (who used to make Portugal’s most famous red, Barca Velha) this is an impressively well balanced Douro red at an attractive price, with subtle, spicy oak, good minerality and acidity and tarry, brambly fruit. Half bottles at £4.45.
2011 Tanners Mosel Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
( £10.95, 11%, Tanners )The supplier for Tanners’ impressive own-label Mosel Riesling Kabinett is none other than the Max Ferd. Richter winery, which is something of a coup. The result is delicious. It’s at the lower end of the sweetness scale (at 27 grams per litre), showing 11% alcohol and a comparatviely “dry” finish. Youthful and zingy, with a touch of carbon dioxide and racy, palate-tingling acidity.
2009 Terra Remota, Usted, Empordà, Empordà
( €100, 15% )Very serious, very ambitious, but so it should be at the price. This blend of Syrah and Grenache shows flavours of sweet red fruits, vanilla spice and liquorice with stylish, smooth tannins, superb balance and a slightly dry finish.
2012 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Essència de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €7, 16.5% )Youthful, fortified Muscat showing a hint of spirit and floral, grapey fruit flavours. An easy-drinking, dessert style that would work well as an aperitif.
2005 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Dolç de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 16.5% )Mature, full-flavoured blend of Garnatxa and Cariñena, showing rich, liquoricey fruit flavours, notes of dried figs and herbs, some spirit and a fiery finish. Dry and a little too hot, this should be drunk now.
NV Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Garnatxa Sol i Serena, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 15.5% )Traditional, oxidative, tawny Port meets Oloroso Sherry style with marked sweetness and developed, rancio notes. Nutty, figgy fruit flavours with some crème caramel notes and aged complexity.
NV Pere Guardiola, Torre de Capmany Gran Reserva, Emporda, Empordà
( €15, 15% )Mature, concentrated, figgy fortified style made in a tawny, barrel-aged style. The volatility is quite marked here, but it’s a complex, aged style with nutty, almond and rancio flavours and impressive, Christmas cake complexity
2004 Vinyes dels Aspres, Bac de les Ginesteres, Emporda, Empordà
( €25 (37.5cl), 14.5% )Savoury, spicy, complex, mature, espresso notes with some sun-dried rancio complexity and Tokaj like acidity. Hazelnut and dried fruits, with complexity that builds on the palate. Complex, Sherry-like notes. Superb.
NV Martí Fabra, Masia Pairal Can Carreras, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Grapey, sweet, fortified Muscat with a slight alcoholic burn, this has notes of citrus and spice and marked acidity on the finish.
