The wines from Albert Bichot are on a steep upward curve at the moment, nowhere more so than in Chablis. This is a classic, unoaked style with notes of oyster shell, steely acidity and enough creaminess on the tongue to bind the whole thing together. Fresh, zesty and utterly transparent. You can almost see the terroir in your glass.
Score Range: 91-95
NV Laithwaite Private Cuvée, Champagne
( £44, 12.5%, Laithwaites )This is a Chardonnay-dominated blend, but it’s the 33% Pinot Noir that really comes through on the nose and palate, giving the wine a malty, raspberry fruity richness. The Chardonnay really kicks in the finish, lifting the wine and giving it frehsness and zest. Classy stuff.
2010 Domaines Brocard Sélection, Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy
( £14.99, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )One of a series of brilliant Chablis to emerge from this domaine (or domaines) in 2010, this is a textbook example of what Chardonnay can produce in a great year in the Yonne. It’s tangy and fresh with lovely chalky minerality and purity of fruit. Deliciously drinkable.
2010 Beaumont Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc, Bot River
( £16, 13%, The Wine Society )Rightly awarded Five Stars in the recent edition of South Africa’s Platter Guide, this is a sublime Cape Chenin Blanc. It’s made in a Chenin meets Chardonnay style, with vanilla-scented barrel fermentation and some nice texture from the lees. The Chenin part provides fresh acidity, notes of apple and subtle tropical fruit and a fine finish. The wine should develop further over the next two or three years.
2010 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay, Santa Barbara
( £18, 13.5%, Majestic )Jim Clendennen makes some of the subtlest Chardonnays on the West Coast, and this understated effort is typical of his style, favouring subtle oak, fresh acidity and medium body. This is textured, aromatic and fresh, with some honey and cinnamon spice, a touch of oak, creamy lees and a zesty finish. I’d love to see more California Chardonnays like this.
2009 Laurent Miquel Vérité Viognier, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc
( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13.5%, Waitrose )Laurent Miquel makes some of the best Viogniers, not just in France but in the world. This judiciously-oaked wine wouldn’t look out of place in Condrieu, such is its fidelity to this supremely aromatic grape. Classy vanilla oak, fresh acidity and flavours of cream and stone fruits are beautifully intertwined here.
2011 Domaine Paul Blanck Gewurztraminer, Alsace
( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13.5%, Waitrose )Produced close to the village of Kientzheim, this is a very stylish Alsace Gewürz, with none of the oilyness that can affect the variety. Gentle spice, with lovely acidity, rose petal fragrance and a brisk, refreshing, ginger-like finish. Try this with a washed rind cheese.
2011 Terredora Greco di Tufo, Terre Degli Angeli, Campania
( £13.99 down to £10.24, 13%, Waitrose )I’ve had more more Italian white wines this year than ever – and no, I’m not talking about Pinot Grigio. This stunner from Montefocso, near Naples, comes from chalky soils and shows lovely, pithy minerality on the palate, backed up by notes of orange zest and citrus fruit and impressive weight.
2011 Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño, Rías Baixas
( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Waitrose )The website is still showing the 2010 vintage, but both are very tasty, so don’t worry. This is my summer white when I’m on holiday in Spain, but it still tastes good in the autumn and winter, provided the dish is right. Spritzy and refreshing with delicious bite and crunch, this is aromatic and fine with notes of lime, fresh apple and white flowers.
2009 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu
( £18.99 down to £14.24, 13%, Waitrose )Master of Wine Michael Brajkovich makes some of the most elegant Chardonnays in the southern hemisphere. This is a precise, beautifully articulated wine that could brush shoulders with a Puligny-Montrachet. There’s a hint of creamy fatness from fermentation lees, understated toasty oak and a backbone of freshness and acidity. These wines aget very well in bottle, so don’t be afraid to keep this.
2009 David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner Semillon, Elim
( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13%, Waitrose )Why don’t the South Africans plant more Semillon in the Cape, given how successful the variety seems to be there. This one from the cool, ocean-influenced area of Elim is toasty, herbal and very refined, with lovely lime and citrus blossom flavours and the potential to age, Hunter Valley-style, in bottle.
NV Graham Beck Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Brut, Western Cape
( £13.99 down to £10.24, 12%, Waitrose )Pieter Ferreira is way ahead of anyone else making sparkling wine in the Cape at the moment, as demonstrated by this partially-barrel fermented fizz. It’s sappy and fresh, but with attractively yeasty autolysis notes, very fine bubbles and a tapering finish. A New World fizz that’s better than a lot of cheap Champagnes.