94

NV Quinta do Noval 20-Year-Old Tawny Port, Douro Valley

( £54, 21%, H2Vin, Soho Wine Supply, The Wine Society )

Tawny Port doesn’t get a whole lot better than this incredible elixir of a wine. Fig, Christmas cake and rancio notes combine beautifully in this savoury/sweet delight. The fortifiication is perfectly judged, while the finish lingers enticingly on the tongue.

Drinking window: 2016-30Similar Wines: Â£50-£100, 91-95, Portugal, Red
91

2010 Albert Bichot, Domaine Long Depaquit Chablis, Burgundy

( £13, 12.5%, Soho Wine Supply )

The wines from Albert Bichot are on a steep upward curve at the moment, nowhere more so than in Chablis. This is a classic, unoaked style with notes of oyster shell, steely acidity and enough creaminess on the tongue to bind the whole thing together. Fresh, zesty and utterly transparent. You can almost see the terroir in your glass.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: Â£10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay