I’ve recommneded a white from Piedra Fluida in the past, but I also wanted to let you know about this red, now that it’s available in the UK. Made from a more or less equal co-fermentation of white Listán Blanco (aka Palomino) and the local Listán Negro grape, it’s an intriguing tinto from the volcanic soils of Tenerife, with lots of old vine concentration, spicy red berry flavours, a waft of wild mountain herbs and savoury, fine-grained tannins.
Score Range: 90-94
2021 Corte Alle Mura Chianti Riserva, Tuscany
( £6.99, 13%, Lidl )Lidl aren’t terribly forthcoming about the varietal make-up of some of their wines, but this is obviously Sangiovese-based, possibly with some other red and white grapes. At this kind of price, maybe the details don’t matter, because this is one the best reds in the discounter’s core range. Just the thing to drink with a plate of pasta, it has aromas of tobacco leaf and black tea and a palate of plum and red cherry fruit supported by savoury tannins and refreshing acidity. It looks pretty smart, too.
2023 Taste the Difference Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône Valley
( £11.50, 14.5%, Sainsbury's )I always tend to drink more southern Rhône reds at this time of year. This one caught my eye at the recent Sainsbury’s press tasting, partly because it was every bit as good as the supermarket’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which retails at nearly twice the price. Syrah based – unusual in this part of France – with 22% Grenache and 4% Carignan – it has aromas of tapenade and mountain herbs, a palate of mulberry and blackberry and impressive texture, grip and palate weight. Perfect with a winter stew.
2022 Domaine de la Rectorie Côté Montagne, Collioure, Roussillon
( £25, 15%, The Wine Society )Collioure is one of the most beautiful towns in the Roussillon region of southern France, as well as the source of this stunning cuvée of Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache and 10% each of Carignan and Counoise. Quintessentially Mediterranean, it’s a blend that carries its 15% alcohol lightly, with enticing aromas of tapenade and rosemary, brooding blackberry and black olive flavours, sinewy tannins and effortless concentration. The perfect winter red.
2022 Taste the Difference Chablis Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy
( £17.50, 13% )This is far from the cheapest Chablis on the high street, but it’s a wine that’s worth paying a little extra to enjoy. Made by J Moreau, it’s a modern-meets-traditional style, with 6% new wood adding a hint of vanilla spice to a palate of citrus and lemon butter complemented by old-vine concentration and the stony freshness that’s harder to find than it used to be in a warming world.
Famille Guerin Moulin à Vent La Vigne de Mon Père, Beaujolais
( £18, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Unfined, unfiltered and fermented and aged in concrete, this is a stunning Beaujolais Cru from Elisa Guerin, the kind of wine that showcases the brightness, energy and vivacity of the best Gamays from the northern part of the region. Elegant, nuanced and hauntingly perfumed, it combines aromas of rose petal and violet with a racy raspberry and pomegranate palate and a spicy undertone from whole bunch fermentation.
2023 Olifantsberg Grenache Noir, Breedekloof Valley
( £16.50, 13.5%, Tesco )Proof that you don’t have to source grapes from Piekenierskloof to make great Grenache in South Africa, this Breedkloof red from Elizma Visser uses comes from a densely planted parcel at 400 metres. Redcurrant and blood orange flavours contribute acidity and a touch of bitterness here, with top notes of rose petal and summer pudding and fine-grained tannins. Ludicrously good value.
2024 Pisano Progreso Tannat Reserve, Canelones
( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )Sitting around the table with the Pisano family is one of my favourite wine experiences. I haven’t been to Progreso for a while, but this great-value Tannat is the next best thing. Combining four different iterations of the country’s signature grape, it’s fresh, perfumed and well-structured, with understated oak, bramble and black cherry flavours, a hint of graphite and textured tannins.
2021 Rupert & Rothschild Classique, Western Cape
( £16, 13.5%, Majestic )Producing 1.2m bottles of a wine as good and consistent as Classique isn’t easy, so hats off to the winemaking team of André Roux and Kayla Oertle-Morse at Rupert & Rothschild. Blended across the Cape, it’s a cuvée of more of less equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec. Smooth, floral and precise, with subtle oak and bramble, plum and blackcurrant flavours. The perfect early autumn red.
2023 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner, Wachau
( £13, 12.5%, Tesco )Grüner Veltiner is Austria’s best white grape, especially when it’s grown close to the Danube River. This appealingly priced example comes from Domäne Wachau, one of Europe’s best co-operatives, and is typically fresh, perfumed and stony, with aromas of white pepper and bay leaf and a palate of pear, lime and green apple.
2024 Domaine de Rouqemale Les Rocs Blancs, Languedoc
( £18.50, 13.5%, Yapp Brothers )So-called Mediterranean style white blends can be harder to sell than single-variety wines, but they have fascinating layers of flavour, with the components adding up to more than the sum of their parts. Valérie and Dominique Ibanez blend more or less equal parts Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Marsanne, Piquepoul, Roussanne, Vermentino and Viognier to make this fascinating white from vineyards close to the Bassin de Thau. Rich, textured yet refreshing, it has flavours of fennel, pear and greengage and a hint of peachy sweetness, balanced by a racy finish.
2024 Springfield Estate Special Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson
( £12 until August 19, 12.5%, Waitrose )Parcels on sandy, alluvial soils in Robertson supply the grapes for this tasty, crowd-pleasing Sauvignon Blanc from the son and daughter team of Abrie and Emma Bruwer. Broader in style than the same winery’s Life from Stone bottling, it has appealing flavours of greengage and lime, a touch of stone fruit sweetness and a textured finish. Worth trying as an alternative to Marlborough Sauvignons at the same price.