Cornas can make some of the chunkiest wines in the northern Rhône, but this is much more refined than many examples. It’s got lovely lifted crackedf pepper and clove spice on the nose, with subtle oak, hints of grilled meat and red fruits and a fine, refreshing finish. The wine will comfortably age for another eight years or more.
Food Match: Game
2010 Torre del Falco Nero di Troia, Puglia
( £7.99 down to £5.99, 13%, Waitrose )Nero di Troia is often regarded as the third best of Puglia’s native grapes, behind Primitivo and Negroamaro, but it can be just as good in my book. This one is bright and aromatic, with no oak to clutter the pristine fruit flavours. It’s minerally and refreshing on the palate with red cherry and raspberry notes and a tang of acidity.
2009 Domaine Lucien Muzard, Premier Cru Maladière, Santenay, Burgundy
( £19.99 down to £14.99, 13%, Waitrose )A Premier Cru Burgundy from a great recent vintage for less than £15? Bargain time! This is rich, sweet and savoury, with bgas of sweet fruit, plenty of smoky oak and the concentration and texture to age in bottle for another five years at least. The finish is fine and refreshing, reflectingf the limestone slope on which it was grown.
2010 Negroamaro Rosso Filimei, L'Astore Masseria, Puglia
( £14.95, 13.5%, Berry Bros & Rudd )Negroamaro is often dismissed in northern Italy as a southern grape that lacks finesse, but it is capable of a delicacy and freshness that wouldn’t look out of place in a Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo if it’s sensitively handled. This is a case in point, an unoaaked, cherry stone and raspberry-scented red with notes of wild herbs and a nip of tannin. It’s light-bodied, too, especially by the standards of some beefy Puglian reds. A delight.
2005 La Capannuccia Chianti Rufina, Tuscany
( £14.99 down to £11.24, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )Always good to see an Italian wine with some bottle age on a supermarket shelf, especially when it’s as good as this Sangiovese-based Tuscan red. It’s made in a modernised traditional style, with lovely floral, tealeafy flavours, fresh acidity and savoury, complex tannins. Drink it with a good winter stew and it will taste even better.
2010 Kanonkop Kadette, Stellenbosch
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )This is only the baby wine from this historic Cape winery (hence Kadette) but it’s still very impressive. A blend of mostly Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon with splashes of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it’s elegant and poised with polished tannins, seamless integration between the varieties and lots of potential. Long and well balanced, this carries its 14% alcohol with effortless grace.
2009 Mayu Syrah Reserva, Elquí Valley
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )The coastal region of Elquí, close to the edge of the Atacama desert, is one of the most exciting in the world. And the wines from this Italian-influenced winery are leading the way. This has the cool climate pepperiness of Syrah (the Pacific is not far away) with notes of raspberry, tomato leaf and clove spice. Close your eyes and you could be drinking something very grand from the Rhône Valley.
2010 Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy
( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Waitrose )Drouhin is one of my favourite Burgundy négociants, equally adept at producing reds and whites. There may be some 2009 of this wine in the stores (as there is on line) but both recent vintages are superb. This is light, graceful and fragrant with fresh, crunchy acidity, a touch of minerality and balanced, nuanced red fruits’ flavours. Very impressive for a “mere” village wine.
2004 Viña Mara Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta
( £13.79, 14%, Tesco )Mature Rioja is one of my favourite wines, especially from a top vintage like 2004. This pure Tempranillo from the ever-reliable Barón de Ley winery will appeal to lovers of traditional Rioja, even though it is a varietal, rather than a blend with Garnacha. It’s savoury and sweet, with supple wild strawberry and game-like flavours, lovely vanilla oak and a complex, nuanced finish. At its best with lamb, but it’s a very versatile red.
2010 Biondi Cisterna Fuori IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 13.5%, Vino Passione )Ciro Biondi’s new single vineyard Etna Rosso, bottled as an IGT due to a mix-up with this year’s paperwork, is still a baby – but already the attractive, lifted red fruit is approachable, and the tannins are muscular but refined. There’s a gorgeous lemon-candy/salty finish, along with slightly nervy acidity that should ensure a bright future. One to cellar for a couple of years, at least.
2009 Scilio Alta Quota Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 14%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )Salvatore Scilio has one of the few organically certified estates on Mount Etna, and Alta Quota is his premium expression of Nerello Mascalese. The balance between acidity and structure is impressive, and the muscular, ripe fruit has a herby, rosemary scent running through it. Superbly elegant, and feels like one for the long haul.
NV Le Petit Roy, 11ème année, Domaine Jean Royer, Rhône Valley
( £12.25, 14.5, Lea & Sandeman )French law means that this Vin de France can’t carry a vintage, but the words “11ème année” are a chunky hint. It’s basically a declassified Châteauneuf du Pape, made in a slightly (and I mean slightly) lighter style. Given the high prices of CNDP these days, this is a great way to taste a stylish, full-throated blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre at a more than reasonable price. Spicy and savoury with medium weight tannins, hints of rosemary and thyme and a core of sweet raspberry and bramble fruit. Perfect autumn drinking.