Capital ventures
by Matt Walls
When London’s first urban winery opened in 2013, I was cynical. But London Cru is still going strong, having since won multiple awards for its wines and gained listings in...
White Varietal: Grenache Blanc
Ventoux: wild wild East
by Matt Walls
“Bonjour!” beamed the skinny young monk as he hurried past me down the steep dirt path, his brown habit flapping behind him. It turns out the local monastery had only...
2015 Domaine Brunet Les Travers, Cairanne, Rhône Valley
( £10-£15, 13%, Vinconnexion )Cairanne whites are something of a rarity – even more so than in nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape – but when they are as impressive as this blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne, you wonder why. Textured, complex and oatmealy, this shows deftly interwoven oak, subtle pear and apricot fruit and a mineral flourish.
Chapoutier 2015 Sélections Parcellaires: the best vintage since 1990?
by Matt Walls
Every spring, Rhône ringleader Michel Chapoutier comes to London to unveil the new vintage of his top single vineyard wines, the Sélections Parcellaires. It’s a hotly anticipated tasting for a...
2000 Domaine Cazes, Ambré, Rivesaltes, Languedoc-Roussillon
( £15.95, 16.5%, Prohibition Wines )At only £15.95 a half bottle, this has to be one of the best value fortifieds on the market at the moment. It’s a mature, salty, rancio-style wine made from Grenache Blanc and Macabeu that’s mid way between a Sherry and a Tawny Port in style. Try it poured over vanilla ice cream or with a walnut tart.
Virgile Joly: Doing it the hard way
by Simon Woolf
If you work in the wine industry, you’ve probably heard this joke before: What’s the best way to become a millionaire in wine? Answer – start with two million. Definitely...
2012 LaFou Els Amelers, Terra Alta
( £12.82, 13.5%, Contact the winery for details )Made entirely from Garnacha Blanca, this delicately oaked white is creamy and herbal, with lovely texture, pear and honeysucke fruit. a touch of aniseed and a taut, minerally finish.
2012 Quinze Roures, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13.5% )A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration, medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally finish.
2011 Old Vines Garnatxa Blanca, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13% )Pale, refined, elegant Garnatxa Blanca with a subtle oak undertone. Vanilla, a touch of toast and zesty acidity allied to elegant citrus and gooseberry fruit are appealingly combined here. Refreshing and long.
2012 Nivia, Mas Llunes, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13.5% )A pure Garnatxa Blanca that is still showing its oaky shell. Savoury/sweet with assertive, toasty oak and some bitterness. Decently made, but the oak seems a little too intrusive, at least for now.
2012 Caminante, Terra Remota, Emporda, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )An organic blend of Garnatxa Blanca, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay from one of the most dynamic producers in the region, this is a modern, oaky white showing flavours of pear and apple with some cinnamon spice and tangy acidity.
2012 Cartesius, Arché Pagès, Empordà
( €12, 14% )Rich, oxidative style Garnatxa Blanca with masses of flavour and concentration: savoury, spicy and rich with well-integrated oak, tangy acidity and thick, powerful flavours. Emporda’s answer to Meursault.