90

2011 Pieropan, Veneto, Soave

( £11, 12%, Liberty Wines )

Pieropan makes some of my favourite Soaves. Its single vineyard wines are sublime, but its larger, entry point blend is pretty good, too. This has a white pepper fragrance, with stony minerality on the palate and a fresh, almost saline finish. Good to see it under screwcap, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, White, Garganega
93

2011 Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño, Rías Baixas

( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Waitrose )

The website is still showing the 2010 vintage, but both are very tasty, so don’t worry. This is my summer white when I’m on holiday in Spain, but it still tastes good in the autumn and winter, provided the dish is right. Spritzy and refreshing with delicious bite and crunch, this is aromatic and fine with notes of lime, fresh apple and white flowers. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2015Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Albariño
93

2011 Terredora Greco di Tufo, Terre Degli Angeli, Campania

( £13.99 down to £10.24, 13%, Waitrose )

I’ve had more more Italian white wines this year than ever – and no, I’m not talking about Pinot Grigio. This stunner from Montefocso, near Naples, comes from chalky soils and shows lovely, pithy minerality on the palate, backed up by notes of orange zest and citrus fruit and impressive weight. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, White, Greco di Tufo
93

2011 Domaine Paul Blanck Gewurztraminer, Alsace

( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13.5%, Waitrose )

Produced close to the village of Kientzheim, this is a very stylish Alsace Gewürz, with none of the oilyness that can affect the variety. Gentle spice, with lovely acidity, rose petal fragrance and a brisk, refreshing, ginger-like finish. Try this with a washed rind cheese. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Gewürztraminer
91

2009 Laurent Miquel Vérité Viognier, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc

( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13.5%, Waitrose )

Laurent Miquel makes some of the best Viogniers, not just in France but in the world. This judiciously-oaked wine wouldn’t look out of place in Condrieu, such is its fidelity to this supremely aromatic grape. Classy vanilla oak, fresh acidity and flavours of cream and stone fruits are beautifully intertwined here. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Viognier
92

2009 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu

( £18.99 down to £14.24, 13%, Waitrose )

Master of Wine Michael Brajkovich makes some of the most elegant Chardonnays in the southern hemisphere. This is a precise, beautifully articulated wine that could brush shoulders with a Puligny-Montrachet. There’s a hint of creamy fatness from fermentation lees, understated toasty oak and a backbone of freshness and acidity. These wines aget very well in bottle, so don’t be afraid to keep this. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Chardonnay
91

2009 David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner Semillon, Elim

( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13%, Waitrose )

Why don’t the South Africans plant more Semillon in the Cape, given how successful the variety seems to be there. This one from the cool, ocean-influenced area of Elim is toasty, herbal and very refined, with lovely lime and citrus blossom flavours and the potential to age, Hunter Valley-style, in bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, South Africa, White, Semillon
91

NV Graham Beck Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Brut, Western Cape

( £13.99 down to £10.24, 12%, Waitrose )

Pieter Ferreira is way ahead of anyone else making sparkling wine in the Cape at the moment, as demonstrated by this partially-barrel fermented fizz. It’s sappy and fresh, but with attractively yeasty autolysis notes, very fine bubbles and a tapering finish. A New World fizz that’s better than a lot of cheap Champagnes. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, South Africa, Sparkling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
94

NV Bertrand de Bessac, Cuvée du Marquis Brut, Champagne

( £29.99 down to £24.49, 12%, Waitrose )

A blend of 60% Pinot Noir from the Aube and 40% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, this has a hefty proportion of toasty reserve wine to add to the ripe fruit from the 2009 vintage. The result is a delicious fizz with real complexity, power and depth as well as the backbone to age. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, France, Sparkling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
92

2010 Domaine des Forges, Côteaux du Layon, Loire Valley

( £7.99 down to £5.99, 11.5%, Waitrose )

You only get a half bottle of this for your money, but I wouldn’t complain. When they are this good, Loire sweet wines wipe the winery floor with similarly priced stickies from Sauternes. There’s some old oak used to age the wine, but it’s just there as a background note, supporting the stylish, minerally, honey and ripe pear flavours. This is liquid tarte tatin, a delicious Coteaux du Layon from the Premier Cru slopes of Chaume. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, France, White, Chenin Blanc
97

1977 D'Oliveiras Reserva Terrantez, Madeira

( £55 down to £41.25, 20%, Waitrose )

Bottled in 2008 (which means it spent more than 30 years in cask), this is the sort of wine that everyone should drink once in their life. It has the classic green tinge of mature Madeira, as well as the marked acidity of the best examples. Savoury, complex and fine, this has a classic cheesy undertone, with mature, smoky, incense-like aromas and flavours. Yes, it’s expensive, but at 25% off, now is the time to buy it. Or offer it as a Christmas present. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-30Similar Wines: £50-£100, 96-100, Other Countries, Fortified, Terrantez
94

NV Warre's Bottle-Aged Late-Bottled Port, Port

( £19.99 down to £14.99, 20%, Waitrose )

LBV Port covers a variety of styles and levels of seriousness, but this is right up there with the very best examples. It was bottled in 2005 and matured for a further four years before release and the result is a wine of great balance and spicy concentration. Smoky, peppery and fine with no obvious rough edges of spirit, just finesse, depth and complexity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2020Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Portugal, Fortified, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional