91

2011 Reuilly, Les Coignons, Denis Jamain, Loire Valley

( £14.25, 12.5%, Berry Bros & Rudd )

A Reuilly that tastes as good as a lot of much more expensive Sancerres and, crucially for a 2011, doesn’t suffer from the earthy, grey rot-like notes that damaged the Loire in that vintage. Subtle, flinty, yet ripe, with good almost Graves-like concentration and notes of goosberry and minerals. Try ageing it for a year or two, as you would a Pessac-Léognan. It might surprise you.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Sauvignon Blanc
90

2011 Tercius Alvarinho, Vinho Verde

( £9.99, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )

Alvarinho is exactly the same grape as Albariño – it’s just grown on the other side of the Minho River in Portugal, as opposed to Spain. In fact, it’s one of the key grapes in Vinho Verde, althoiugh it’s often blended with other grapes. This is typically floral and fresh, but with more weight than many Vinhos Verdes, with notes of lime and pear and a chalky, palate-cleansing minerality. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Portugal, White, Albariño
89

2011 Vega de la Reina Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda

( £6.49, 13%, Majestic )

International varieties are overshadowed in Spain by local grapes, but Sauvignon seems to have found an ideal spot in Rueda, producing wines that are delicious as well as distinctive. This is a total bargain if you buy two bottles, and I promise you wont’t regret having a spare in the fridge. It’s got flavours of pink grapefruit and passion fruit, a hint of gunflint on the nose and, pithy, refreshing acidity. Not many places could better this at £6.49 for a tasty Sauvignon Blanc. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, White, Sauvignon Blanc
89

2011 Herdade do Esporão, Verdelho, Vinho Regional Alentejano

( £8.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

White wines from the baking plains of southern Portugal are often rather flabby and dull, but this perky number from one of the region’s best producers is anything but, showing tangy acidity, bright, citrus peel flavours and a minerality that wouldn’t look out of place in Chablis. Bring on the seafood. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Portugal, White, Verdejo
92

2008 Bodegas Ochoa, Mil Gracias Graciano, Navarra

( £11.99, 13.5%, Hennings Wine Merchants )

Graciano is more readily associated with neighbouring Rioja (and then only in small quantities) than Navarra, but this one from the youthful Adriana Ochoa is superb. It’s almost Italian in style, with marked acidity, some spice and a fair bit of tannin, but there’s some black cherry and bramble fruit to add sweetness and flesh to the bones. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Red, Graciano
94

2008 Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia

( £28.99, 14.5%, Slurp, Wine Direct )

You could open this impressive Cabernet/Shiraz blend right now, but you’d be missing out on what the wine will do in bottle. This is the top red from Yalumba in most vintages and that’s the case here. It’s rich and deeply coloured, but not over-ripe or blowsy in the slightest. Structured and sweet, with nuances of blueberry, mint, chocolate and vanilla, polished, fine-grained tannins a a long, satisfying finish.

Drinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Australia, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz
90

NV Harvey Nichols Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Valdobbiadene Prosecco, Veneto

( £15, 11%, Harvey Nichols )

A Prosecco with a bit of bling? You might blink at the idea of spending £15 on a bottle of cuve close method fizz, but this is rather good: drier than most examples, with floral aromas, pear and nectarine fruit and small bubbles. Soft and very easy to drink, darling. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, Sparkling, Prosecco
93

2003 Quinta do Noval, Vintage Port, Douro Valley

( £68, 19.5%, Ocado )

It’s always hot in the Douro, but it was really, really hot in 2003 and I think it shows in the wines. This is a big, if slightly pruney style with more than a hint of Douro bake. Packed with black fruits and liquorice and pretty serious tannins, it needs more time in bottle to sweeten up and shed some of the sturdy backbone. 

Drinking window: 2015-20Similar Wines: £50-£100, 91-95, Portugal, Fortified, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
93

Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro Valley

( £18.99, 21.5%, Fortnum & Mason, Ocado, Tanners, Waitrose )

The received wisdom (at least round my gaff) is that 20-year-old Tawnies are better than the 10-year-old versions, but this wine challenges that. It will improve further in bottle, but it’s remarkable now, an intense, nutty, figgy fortified  with more tannin and concentration than commerical Tawnies at lower price points. In short, it’s worth the extra cash: a sweet, yet structured, wood-matured Port with impressive palate length.

Drinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, Portugal, Fortified, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
96

1997 Quinta do Noval Colheita Port, Douro Valley

( £39, 21.5%, Fine Wines Direct, Ocado, SH Jones )

If you’re a fan of vintage dated Tawnies (aka Colheita Ports), they don’t come much better than this. It’s endearlingly, palate-stimulatingly spicy, with real intensity and focus, an impression of heat and figgy intensity, a faint undertone of spirit and a finish that lingers on the palate for minutes. The wine is drier than many examples, with the structure that is the hallmark of Noval’s wood-aged Ports.

Drinking window: 2013-25Similar Wines: £10-£20, 96-100, Portugal, Fortified, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
92

2011 Brancott Estate, Letter Series, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

( £16, 9.5%, Brancott Estate Shop )

Interesting to see New Zealand’s biggest producer branching out into the production of high end, late picked dessert-style Sauvignon Blanc and selling it on line through its own channels. The result is very tasty, with syrupy, but not cloying flavours of exotic mango and pink grapefruit, light alcohol and well judged sweetness. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, Sweet, Sauvignon Blanc
96

2007 Disznókö, 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji Aszú, Tokaj

( £25.60, 12.5%, Waitrose )

Superb Tokay from one of the best, modern-style producers in this most traditional of sweet wine regions. This is still a very young wine, even at six years old, with the acidity you expect from Furmint. It’s bitingly fresh, but the appley tartness is balanced by pear and honeyed sweetness, with hints of white flowers and remarkable concentration and length. One to buy now and hold on to for a decade. 

Drinking window: 2013-25Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Hungary, Sweet, Furmint