Collioure is one of the most beautiful towns in the Roussillon region of southern France, as well as the source of this stunning cuvée of Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache and 10% each of Carignan and Counoise. Quintessentially Mediterranean, it’s a blend that carries its 15% alcohol lightly, with enticing aromas of tapenade and rosemary, brooding blackberry and black olive flavours, sinewy tannins and effortless concentration. The perfect winter red.
Retailer: The Wine Society
Famille Guerin Moulin à Vent La Vigne de Mon Père, Beaujolais
( £18, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Unfined, unfiltered and fermented and aged in concrete, this is a stunning Beaujolais Cru from Elisa Guerin, the kind of wine that showcases the brightness, energy and vivacity of the best Gamays from the northern part of the region. Elegant, nuanced and hauntingly perfumed, it combines aromas of rose petal and violet with a racy raspberry and pomegranate palate and a spicy undertone from whole bunch fermentation.
2024 Pisano Progreso Tannat Reserve, Canelones
( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )Sitting around the table with the Pisano family is one of my favourite wine experiences. I haven’t been to Progreso for a while, but this great-value Tannat is the next best thing. Combining four different iterations of the country’s signature grape, it’s fresh, perfumed and well-structured, with understated oak, bramble and black cherry flavours, a hint of graphite and textured tannins.
2004 Bodegas Urbina Gran Reserva Blue Label, Rioja
( £26, 14%, The Wine Society )Based in Cuzcurrita, one of the coldest parts of the Rioja Alta sub-region, the extended, super brainy Urbina family makes some of the longest-lived and best-value reds in Spain. This blend of Tempranillo and around 10% Graciano and Mazuelo is a mature, scented delight, offering aromas of cured leather, coconut and tobacco leaf and dill and wild strawberry flavours framed by granular tannins and a balsamic finish. Ludicrously cheap.
2023 Domaine Huchet Muscadet Chemin des Prières, Loire Valley
( £12.50, 12%, The Wine Society )Muscadet can be one of France’s most underrated whites. This delightful, lees-aged Melon de Bourgogne from Jérémie Huchet hails from cooler, granite-rich soils in the commune of Château-Thébaud. Textured, racy, rich, yet bone-dry, it has notes of citrus, green apple and sea breeze and an intensely stony finish balanced by delightful mid-palate weight.
2022 Carinus Family Vineyards Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch
( £14.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )Over the last decade or so, the Polkadraai Hills in Stellenbosch have emerged as one of the best places in the world to grow Syrah. It’s a region that produces wines that can go toe-to-toe with the best of the northern Rhône. This wine from Danie Carinus’ own vines, vinified by superstar winemaker Lukas van Loggerenberg, is crazily good value for money. It has enticing clove, lavender and white pepper aromas, tangy blackberry and tapenade flavours and a whisper of oak. Delicious.
2024 The Society's Greek White, Greece
( £8.95, 12.5%, The Wine Society )The Wine Society has made a specialism of Greece and it’s paid off in the quality of the stuff they import from one of Europe’s most exciting wine-producing countries. This is a scented, zingy blend of Moschofilero and Roditis that would be ideal with a piece of grilled fish and a bowl of green olives. Flavours of lemongrass, wild thyme and citrus peel are complemented by notes of fennel and sea salt and a hint of quinine-like bitterness. Remarkably good at the price.
2024 Familie Mantler Gemischter Satz, Niederösterreich
( £8.75, 11.5%, The Wine Society )The kind of thing you’d be delighted to come across in a Heuriger, or wine tavern, in the hills above Vienna, this a cracking, unoaked white that’s perfect for spring. Refreshingly light bodied and spritzy, it’s based on Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s most distinctive variety, with support from 15% Müller-Thurgau and 5% Muskateller. Juicy, tangy and thirst-quenchingly refreshing, with appealing lime, passion fruit and boiled sweets’ flavours and a touch of balancing sweetness.
2023 Botanica Mary Delany Collection Chenin Blanc, Citrusdal Mountain
( £27, 13%, The Wine Society )Consistently one of the best Chenin Blancs in the Cape, the Mary Delany Collection uses grapes from a 1960 block between 450 and 500 metres on the Citrusdal Mountain. Fermented and aged in older barrels, it has aromas of hay and wild flowers, flavours of lime and passion fruit, subtle wood and a tangy, tapering finish. An exceptional wine from an exceptional site.
2018 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile Savagnin, Jura
( £27, 14.5%, The Wine Society )It’s great to see a UK retailer selling a mature Jura white of such quality! This is a very well-priced, deliberately oxidised style of the local Savagnin grape from Domaine de Montbourgeau that’s savoury, dense and bone-dry, with hints of beeswax, citrus and salted almonds, some underlying tannic grip and a persistent finish. Try it with dried mushrooms or a piece of Comté cheese.
2020 Reyneke Biodynamic Syrah, Stellenbosch
( £14.95, 13%, The Wine Society )The Polkadraai Hills in Stellenbosch are one the best places in the New World to grow Syrah and no one does it better than Johan “the vine hugger” Reyneke. Fermented with 30% whole bunches, this has enticing aromas of pine and lavender and a vibrant, spicy, grippy palate of fig, white pepper and barbecued meat. An amazing bargain at under £15.
2023 Benanti Etna Bianco, Sicily
( £22, 12.5%, The Wine Society )Etna in north-east Sicily is better known for its reds than whites, but the best examples of the latter, made from the local grape Carricante, can be spectacular, somewhere between a Burgundian Aligoté and a top Soave in style. This is totally unoaked, but draws richness from six months of lees’ ageing. Stony and intense, with notes of lime, fennel and lemon juice, steely, palate-cleansing acidity and a mineral tang. Best drunk with the Mediterranean sun on your face, but it’ll cheer you up in winter too.