The wonderfully theatrical Chester Osborn is better known for his reds than his whites, but he has a suprisingly subtle touch with the latter, as this very lightly oaked blend of Viognier with 32% Marsanne demonstrates. It’s a spicy, pithy, understated white, with good crunch and zest, a hint of apricot and a mealy, balanced finish.
Retailer: Sainsbury's
2011 Leitz Rheingau Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau
( £12.99, 10%, Sainsbury's )Made by the talented Johannes Leitz, this is a modern Rheingau Riesling from a very good vintage, with classic sweet and sour flavours of apple and stone fruit, 47 grams of sugar, some extra weight from lees contact and a long, crunchy finish. Very refreshing, despite the residual sugar.
NV Taittinger Brut, Champagne
( £37.99, 12%, Majestic, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose, Wine Rack )Taittinger is in a rich vein of form at the moment, from this its non vintage blend right up the Olympian heghts of Comtes de Champagne. This is dry, toasty and well balanced with Chardonnay providing the freshness and lift on the palate. Appealingly dry for non vintage blend, using bottle age rather than sweetness for balance.
2010 Domaine Brocard, Saint Céline, Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu, Burgundy
( £16.99, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )It’s worth paying a little extra to secure a bottle of this special Premier Cru from Domaines Brocard, as it has even more weight and concentration. There’s great texture here, with notes of citrus fruit and fresh cream and a stony, chalky finish. Fantastic value and a brilliant expression of a very good Chablis vintage.
2010 Domaines Brocard Sélection, Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy
( £14.99, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )One of a series of brilliant Chablis to emerge from this domaine (or domaines) in 2010, this is a textbook example of what Chardonnay can produce in a great year in the Yonne. It’s tangy and fresh with lovely chalky minerality and purity of fruit. Deliciously drinkable.
NV Sainsbury's Blanc de Noirs Champagne
( £20.99 down to £15.74, 12%, Sainsbury's )Well, that’s my Christmas Party fizz taken care of. This is outrageously good value, a superb own-label Champagne that ranks with the very best buys in the high street right now. It’s a toasty, bottle-aged blend of mostly Pinot Meunier with 40% Pinot Noir and it’s singing at the top of its voice. Small bubbles, great length, richness and complexity, with lots of extra weight from 30% reserve wines. Buy, buy, buy.
2010 Domaine Joly Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy
( £29.99 down to £24.49, 13%, Sainsbury's )If you feel like treating your nearest and dearest (or just yourself) on Christmas Day, I’d buy a bottle of this very smart white Burgundy from one of the best vintages of the last 50 years. Focused and rich, with lovely oak integration, mealy, buttery notes and a foundation of minerally, limestone-related acidity. The wine is great now, but will happily sit in your wine rack for another five years or more.
2010 Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage, Les Meysonniers, Rhône Valley
( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Sainsbury's )The enfant terrible of the Rhône is at the top of his form right now, even on wines from lesser appellations, such as Crozes-Hermitage. This has classic Syrah aromas of tapenade and smoked meat, allied to freshness, brightness and length. It’s organic, its unoaked and it’s truly delicious.
2005 La Capannuccia Chianti Rufina, Tuscany
( £14.99 down to £11.24, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )Always good to see an Italian wine with some bottle age on a supermarket shelf, especially when it’s as good as this Sangiovese-based Tuscan red. It’s made in a modernised traditional style, with lovely floral, tealeafy flavours, fresh acidity and savoury, complex tannins. Drink it with a good winter stew and it will taste even better.
2010 Kanonkop Kadette, Stellenbosch
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )This is only the baby wine from this historic Cape winery (hence Kadette) but it’s still very impressive. A blend of mostly Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon with splashes of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it’s elegant and poised with polished tannins, seamless integration between the varieties and lots of potential. Long and well balanced, this carries its 14% alcohol with effortless grace.
2009 Mayu Syrah Reserva, Elquà Valley
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )The coastal region of ElquÃ, close to the edge of the Atacama desert, is one of the most exciting in the world. And the wines from this Italian-influenced winery are leading the way. This has the cool climate pepperiness of Syrah (the Pacific is not far away) with notes of raspberry, tomato leaf and clove spice. Close your eyes and you could be drinking something very grand from the Rhône Valley.
NV Hidalgo Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana, Jerez
( £12.99 down to £9.74, 15%, Sainsbury's )A bottle of my favourite Manzanilla for less than a tenner? Sign me up. This aged style from coastal Sanlúcar de Barrameda is an Andalucian classic. Rich and savoury, with yeasty, baking dough aromas, intense, salty, tangy flavours and a finish that goes on for so long it could outsell Viagra. An incredible wine at a bargain price.