92

Dry Old Palo Cortado, Jerez

( £7.49, 19%, Marks & Spencer )

Great Sherry remains one of the wine world’s great bargains, even in half bottles like this one from the high quality Emilion Lustau operation. This is a classic Palo – with slightly more weight than an Amontillado, but similalry nutty, savoury flavours. Bone dry on the palate, with lovely, old barrel-aged notes of toast and grilled almonds and a salty note from five years spent in a Fino solera system. Great as an aperitif, but also amazing with tapas. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Spain, Fortified, Palomino Fino
87

2012 Principe Pallavicini Poggio Verde Frascati Superiore Secco, Rome

( £8.50, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

Proper, bone-dry Frascati with good concentration and plenty of herbal, Mediterranean flavours. Saline and slightly bitter (no bad thing here, if you’re drinking the wine with food), this is a tangy, palate-cleansing white with a nutty finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, White, Malvasia di Candia, Trebbiano
89

2009 Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva, Tuscany

( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )

Chaintis from Rufina often have a slightly savoury, even rustic note to them, which distinguishes them from Classico styles. This great value example certainly has a little of that, but it’s offset by sweet red fruits. This is a fairly traditional style, combining Sangiovese with Canaiolo, with fairly sturdy tannins and a lift of volatile acidity. A pasta-bashing red. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, Red, Sangiovese
87

2012 The Society's Vinho Verde, Minho

( £5.95, 11.5%, The Wine Society )

Summer may be over (at least in northern Europe), but this is still a delicously refreshing, low-alcohol Portuguese white that’s just the thing for sunny afternoons. It’s commendably cheap, too. Tangy, spritzy and zingy, it’s floral and dry with palate-tickling acidity and a citrus fruit bite. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Portugal, White, Albariño, Loureiro
88

NV Albinea Canali Lambrusco Secco, Ottocentonero, Lambrusco dell'Emilia, Emilia-Romagna

( £7.95, 11.5%, The Wine Society )

Visitors to Bologna will be familiar with drier styles of the local frothy red, Lambrusco. Elsewhere, it tends to be regarded as sweet and a bit too commercial, which is a shame, as wines like this one deserve a wider audience. Juicy, dry and very drinkable, even with food, this has bright plum and black cherry fruit, a nip of tannin and a mouthful of bubbles. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, Sparkling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lambrusco, Lancellotta
90

2012 Bolo Godello Mountain Wine, Valdeorras

( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )

Alabriño may be more familiar to consumers than Godello, but the latter grape can be just as exciting. It’s more mineral and weighty (and even works well with oak on occasion). This high altitude example is fresh and bone dry, with a chalky, almost Chablis-like note and flavours of citrus, apple and pear. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, White, Godello
87

2012 Chartreuse de Mourgères Le Pèlerin Blanc, Pays de Caux

( £6.25, 12.5%, The Wine Society )

The grapes for this blend of Sauvignon, Vermentino and a hint of grapey Muscat come from land formerly owned by a Carthusian monastery in the Languedoc. It’s certainly an unusual wine with notes of wild herbs and flowers and a slight sweetness that reminds you of acacia honey. The Muscat adds an oily richness to the crisp frame.

BuySimilar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, White, Muscat à Petits Grains, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino
86

2012 Esprit de Labaside, Le Perlé, Gaillac

( £5.95, 12%, The Wine Society )

Made by the local Gaillac co-op, this all Mauzac white is slightly sparkling – hence the perlé name. It’s a fresh, medium bodied white that’s a little like a Spanish Albariñon in flavour and texture. Tangy and fresh with flavours of pear and apple and a hint of tangerine. Very quaffable. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, White, Mauzac
86

2011 The Curator, The Swartland

( £6.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

By the hot house standards of the Swartland, this is a light and comparatively elegant red blend of mostly Shiraz with some Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Viognier. It’s a scented, unoaked style with some pepper spice, raspberry and red cherry fruit and refreshing acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, South Africa, Red, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah/Shiraz, Bourboulenc, Viognier
89

2012 Fairtrade Argentine Malbec, Famatina Valley, La Rioja

( £6.99, 13%, The Co-operative )

Stop press! This is the best Fairtrade wine I’ve had yet from Argentina and one of the best I’ve had from anywhere, too. Sourced from La Rioja (nothing to do with the Spanish region of the same name), it’s very, very aromatic, with wafts of liquourice and violets, a hint of spice and deeply coloured, textured bramble and blackberry fruit. The tannins are plush and sweet, with subtle use of oak. Bravo!

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Argentina, Red, Malbec
89

2011 João Portugal Ramos F'Oz, Alentejo

( £9.99, 14%, Waitrose )

The Alentejo is becoming more and more impressive with each vintage as a source of southern Portugal’s best red wines. This great value, under-a-tenner blend of Aragonez (aka Tempranillo), Trincadeira and Castelão is a case in point. It’s aromatic and refreshing, with no sign of sun-baked, raisiny flavours, fine tannins, notes of chocolate, black cherry and plum and a firm, but well balanced finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Portugal, Red, Castelão, Tempranillo, Trincadeira