97

2009 Bertrand Ambroise, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Bertrand Ambroise makes some of the best value Burgundies on the market, from his basic wines right up to his Grands Crus. They are characterised by restrained use of oak, subtle, understated fruit flavours and considerable finesse. This is light, perfumed and refreshing, but with complex wild starwberry and forest floor notes, tangy acidity, great poise and a fine, tapering finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
93

2009 Jacques Prieur, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Famous for its amazing Grand Cru holdings, Jacques Prieur hits the heights more often with its whites than its reds. That’s not to play down the quality of this wine, which is very good indeed; rather it is intended to praise the Côte de Beaune wines. This is aromatic and smoky, with subtle oak, sweet red fruits and enough structure and tannin to age. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
95

2009 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

The quality of this Boisset-owned domaine within a négociant is consistently outstanding, thanks to very good vineyards and the talent of winemaker Pierre Vincent. This is very pale and elegant on the nose and palate, almost ethereal in fact. It may not age for a long time, but it’s delicious now, with notes of redcurrant and sweet raspberries. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
87

2009 Michel Gros, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Pale garnet in colour, very delicate. A little oak-dominated on the nose and palate, with a note of burnt meat. There might be a little whole bunch character here, or it could just be the slightly intrusive oak. Whatever it is, it reminded me of an Islay malt whisky’s peatiness. Strange wine. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir
95

2009 Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Consistently among my favourite négociants in Burgundy, Drouhin makes very good wines at every level. This is delicate pink in colour. On the nose and palate, it’s remarkably elegant for a 2009, with no sign of high alcohol. Refined and aromatic with rose petal and tomato leaf scents, leading on to fresh, cherry and wild stawberry fruit. Appealingly understated. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
87

2009 Pierre André, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Dense, almost opaque colour that could be a Syrah or a Cabernet in appearance. Big, oaky, concentrated, yet a little ponderous with too much extraction for the level of fruit. This is a decent dry red, but it doesn’t really stack up as a Grand Cru Burgundy, even from Clos de Vougeot. May soften with age, but I have my doubts. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir