89

2010 Berry Bros & Rudd Good Ordinary Claret, Bordeaux

( £9, 13.5%, Berry Bros & Rudd )

Not quite as sumptuous and fleshy as the 2009 GOC, but you’d expect that based on the character of the 2010 vintage. Just give this a little time to fill out, because it’s an appealingly fresh, well structured red with attractive berry fruits and medium tannins.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: Â£5-£10, 86-90, France, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
89

2007 Ogier, Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône

( £25, 15%, Majestic )

Too many UK retailers are already on the 2009 and even 2010 vintage of CNDP, so it’s good to taste a wine that, while still young, is showing some bottle maturity. This is rich and deeply coloured with dark berry fruits, a hint of clove and a spicy, meaty finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: Â£20-£30, 86-90, France, Red, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre
91

2010 Albert Bichot, Domaine Long Depaquit Chablis, Burgundy

( £13, 12.5%, Soho Wine Supply )

The wines from Albert Bichot are on a steep upward curve at the moment, nowhere more so than in Chablis. This is a classic, unoaked style with notes of oyster shell, steely acidity and enough creaminess on the tongue to bind the whole thing together. Fresh, zesty and utterly transparent. You can almost see the terroir in your glass.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: Â£10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay
92

NV Laithwaite Private Cuvée, Champagne

( £44, 12.5%, Laithwaites )

This is a Chardonnay-dominated blend, but it’s the 33% Pinot Noir that really comes through on the nose and palate, giving the wine a malty, raspberry fruity richness. The Chardonnay really kicks in the finish, lifting the wine and giving it frehsness and zest. Classy stuff.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: Â£30-£50, 91-95, France, Sparkling
92

2010 Domaines Brocard Sélection, Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy

( £14.99, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )

One of a series of brilliant Chablis to emerge from this domaine (or domaines) in 2010, this is a textbook example of what Chardonnay can produce in a great year in the Yonne. It’s tangy and fresh with lovely chalky minerality and purity of fruit. Deliciously drinkable.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: Â£10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay
90

2011 Château Clément Perlé, Gaillac, South-West France

( £8.99, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )

It’s great to see a supermarket championing the undervalued wines of south-west France, so a round of applause for Marks & Spencer for listing this unusual blend of three local grape varieties. It’s quite a weighty wine for its 12.5% alcohol, with notes of honey and fresh earth, a soft, yet refreshing palate with a slight spritz and a tangy, refreshing finish. Try it as an aperitif or with fish or poultry. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: Â£5-£10, 86-90, France, White, Loin de l'Oeil, Mauzac, Muscadelle
91

2011 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Les Dix Arpents, Montlouis, Loire

( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Waitrose )

The 2011 vintage was a tricky one in the Loire, but this wine is gloriously unaffected. It’s a pure, dry, oak-matured Chenin Blanc which combines notes of apples, honey and pears with some sweet vanilla and assertive, mouthwatering acidity. A delicious wine from the talented Jacky Blot.  

BuyDrinking window: 2012-20Similar Wines: Â£10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chenin Blanc
91

2010 Château Lafleur de Haute-Serre, Cahors, Southwest France

( £10.49 down to £7.85, 13.5%, Waitrose )

You may have to go into store to buy this, as it doesn’t seem to be available on line, but it’s worth it. It’s light and refreshing for a Cahors, with no oak, sweet bramble and blackberry fruit, good balance and a perky, refreshing finish. 10% Merlot adds a little  plumpness to the blend, fleshing out the 90% Malbec. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: Â£10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Malbec, Merlot