If you’re going to use one winery as your source of house Albariño, Pazo de Señorans is a great choice. This is weighty and concentrated by local standards, showing aromas of lime blossom and fresh straw, crisp, apple and citrus fruit and an undertone of stony minerality. Long and very stylish.
Wine Type: White
2009 The Liberator (This Bird Has Flown), Swartland
( £11.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )This Cape blend of Chenin, Viognier, Chardonnay and Clairetter Blanche won’t be to everyone’s taste – it’s got some age to it and a developed, Sherry-like not – but I salute its ambiiton and left field flavours. Rich and honeyed, with some vanilla and nutmeg spice, fresh acidity and bags of concentration. Appealingly funky.
2012 Chartreuse de Mourgères Le Pèlerin Blanc, Pays de Caux
( £6.25, 12.5%, The Wine Society )The grapes for this blend of Sauvignon, Vermentino and a hint of grapey Muscat come from land formerly owned by a Carthusian monastery in the Languedoc. It’s certainly an unusual wine with notes of wild herbs and flowers and a slight sweetness that reminds you of acacia honey. The Muscat adds an oily richness to the crisp frame.
2012 Esprit de Labaside, Le Perlé, Gaillac
( £5.95, 12%, The Wine Society )Made by the local Gaillac co-op, this all Mauzac white is slightly sparkling – hence the perlé name. It’s a fresh, medium bodied white that’s a little like a Spanish Albariñon in flavour and texture. Tangy and fresh with flavours of pear and apple and a hint of tangerine. Very quaffable.
2011 Tanners Mosel Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
( £10.95, 11%, Tanners )The supplier for Tanners’ impressive own-label Mosel Riesling Kabinett is none other than the Max Ferd. Richter winery, which is something of a coup. The result is delicious. It’s at the lower end of the sweetness scale (at 27 grams per litre), showing 11% alcohol and a comparatviely “dry” finish. Youthful and zingy, with a touch of carbon dioxide and racy, palate-tingling acidity.
2012 Castillo Perelada, Garnatxa Blanca, Emporda, emporda
( €5, 13.5% )Unoaked and great value, this old vine Garnacha is fresh and minerally with notes of fennel and fresh lemon and a touch of wild herb bitterness. Bright and well balanced, this is a refreshing seafood white.
2012 Blanc dels Aspres, Vinyes dels Aspres, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 14.5% )Old vine Garnatxa Blanca from one of the top three producers in Emporda, this is a delicious white: savoury, fresh and well balanced with notes of vanilla and cinnamon, bright, spicy fruit, lovely texture and amazing concentration. (see last year)
2012 Oliveda, Furot, Emporda, Empordà
( €7, 12.5% )Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc (not the region’s strongest suit, it must be said) this is a tangy, grapefruity white with hints of peach and nectarine and a creamy, lees-derived mid palate. More Graves than Marlborough.
2012 Verd Albera, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €6.50, 13% )A crowd pleasing white, combining Garnatxa Blanca with a touch of Muscat, this is aromatic and floral, with flavours of honey and baking spices, some pear and crisp, balancing acidity.
2012 Joc Blanc, Jordi Oliver, Empordà, Empordà
( €7.50, 13.5% )An unoaked blend of Macabeu and Garnatxa Blanca, this is a bargain, with real focus and minerality from a combination of granite and slate soils. Zesty and refreshing with honeysuckle and citrus fruit notes and a long, tapering finish.
2011 Flor d’Albera, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 13% )An unusual, barrel-fermented Muscat from Joan Fabra that isn’t overwhelmed by splinters. Soft and grapey, with hints of honey and white flowers and a hint of bitterness.
2012 Mallolet, Roig Parals, Empordà, Empordà
( €7, 13.5% )There’s a touch of Muscat in the blend of Macabeu and Garnatxa Blanca here, adding a floral, grapey top note to the wine’s minerally, almost saline core. Fresh and floral with flavours of pink grapefruit and wild herbs.