89

2011 Herdade do Esporão, Verdelho, Vinho Regional Alentejano

( £8.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

White wines from the baking plains of southern Portugal are often rather flabby and dull, but this perky number from one of the region’s best producers is anything but, showing tangy acidity, bright, citrus peel flavours and a minerality that wouldn’t look out of place in Chablis. Bring on the seafood. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Portugal, White, Verdejo
92

2008 Bodegas Ochoa, Mil Gracias Graciano, Navarra

( £11.99, 13.5%, Hennings Wine Merchants )

Graciano is more readily associated with neighbouring Rioja (and then only in small quantities) than Navarra, but this one from the youthful Adriana Ochoa is superb. It’s almost Italian in style, with marked acidity, some spice and a fair bit of tannin, but there’s some black cherry and bramble fruit to add sweetness and flesh to the bones. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Red, Graciano
94

2008 Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia

( £28.99, 14.5%, Slurp, Wine Direct )

You could open this impressive Cabernet/Shiraz blend right now, but you’d be missing out on what the wine will do in bottle. This is the top red from Yalumba in most vintages and that’s the case here. It’s rich and deeply coloured, but not over-ripe or blowsy in the slightest. Structured and sweet, with nuances of blueberry, mint, chocolate and vanilla, polished, fine-grained tannins a a long, satisfying finish.

Drinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Australia, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz
90

NV Harvey Nichols Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Valdobbiadene Prosecco, Veneto

( £15, 11%, Harvey Nichols )

A Prosecco with a bit of bling? You might blink at the idea of spending £15 on a bottle of cuve close method fizz, but this is rather good: drier than most examples, with floral aromas, pear and nectarine fruit and small bubbles. Soft and very easy to drink, darling. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, Sparkling, Prosecco
93

2003 Quinta do Noval, Vintage Port, Douro Valley

( £68, 19.5%, Ocado )

It’s always hot in the Douro, but it was really, really hot in 2003 and I think it shows in the wines. This is a big, if slightly pruney style with more than a hint of Douro bake. Packed with black fruits and liquorice and pretty serious tannins, it needs more time in bottle to sweeten up and shed some of the sturdy backbone. 

Drinking window: 2015-20Similar Wines: £50-£100, 91-95, Portugal, Fortified, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
93

Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro Valley

( £18.99, 21.5%, Fortnum & Mason, Ocado, Tanners, Waitrose )

The received wisdom (at least round my gaff) is that 20-year-old Tawnies are better than the 10-year-old versions, but this wine challenges that. It will improve further in bottle, but it’s remarkable now, an intense, nutty, figgy fortified  with more tannin and concentration than commerical Tawnies at lower price points. In short, it’s worth the extra cash: a sweet, yet structured, wood-matured Port with impressive palate length.

Drinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, Portugal, Fortified, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
96

1997 Quinta do Noval Colheita Port, Douro Valley

( £39, 21.5%, Fine Wines Direct, Ocado, SH Jones )

If you’re a fan of vintage dated Tawnies (aka Colheita Ports), they don’t come much better than this. It’s endearlingly, palate-stimulatingly spicy, with real intensity and focus, an impression of heat and figgy intensity, a faint undertone of spirit and a finish that lingers on the palate for minutes. The wine is drier than many examples, with the structure that is the hallmark of Noval’s wood-aged Ports.

Drinking window: 2013-25Similar Wines: £10-£20, 96-100, Portugal, Fortified, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
92

2011 Brancott Estate, Letter Series, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

( £16, 9.5%, Brancott Estate Shop )

Interesting to see New Zealand’s biggest producer branching out into the production of high end, late picked dessert-style Sauvignon Blanc and selling it on line through its own channels. The result is very tasty, with syrupy, but not cloying flavours of exotic mango and pink grapefruit, light alcohol and well judged sweetness. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, Sweet, Sauvignon Blanc
96

2007 Disznókö, 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji Aszú, Tokaj

( £25.60, 12.5%, Waitrose )

Superb Tokay from one of the best, modern-style producers in this most traditional of sweet wine regions. This is still a very young wine, even at six years old, with the acidity you expect from Furmint. It’s bitingly fresh, but the appley tartness is balanced by pear and honeyed sweetness, with hints of white flowers and remarkable concentration and length. One to buy now and hold on to for a decade. 

Drinking window: 2013-25Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Hungary, Sweet, Furmint
94

2009 Lions de Suduiraut, Sauternes, Bordeaux

( £15, 14%, Averys, Berry Bros & Rudd )

That’s £15 per half by the way, just in case you were amazed by the bargain on offer here. Still, it’s a lovely Sauternes, made by a property that made some of the best sweet wines in Bordeaux in 2009. This is honeyed and intense, but with less concentration than the same château’s grown up wine. Sweet vanilla pod and crème brûlée notes combine with a citrus lift on the palate. Classy stuff.

Drinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Sweet, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
95

2010 Mazzei, Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico, Tuscany

( £16.75, 13.5%, Great Western Wine )

When it’s good – and 2010 is a very classy vintage in Tuscany – Chianti Classico can still deliver a lot of flavour and complexity for less than £20. That’s certainly the case here, because I can’t remember a better basic wine from this estate. Its texture is almost Pinot Noir-like, but with a nip of tannin to add some extra backbone. On the palate, it’s silky and sweet with subtle oak and notes of dried tea, raspberry and wild strawberry. Essence of Sangiovese. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Sangiovese
90

2010 Montes Alpha, Merlot, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley

( £12.99, 14.5%, Majestic )

Montes is a winery that has mastered the art of delivering flavour and some complexity at affordable prices, as typified by this ripe, deeply-coloured Merlot from the Colchagua Valley. This has some classic Chilean mint, with attractive plum and black cherry flavours, mid-weight tannins and sweet, assertive oak. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Chile, Red, Merlot