Mature Rioja is one of my favourite wines, especially from a top vintage like 2004. This pure Tempranillo from the ever-reliable Barón de Ley winery will appeal to lovers of traditional Rioja, even though it is a varietal, rather than a blend with Garnacha. It’s savoury and sweet, with supple wild strawberry and game-like flavours, lovely vanilla oak and a complex, nuanced finish. At its best with lamb, but it’s a very versatile red.
2011 Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
( £13.50, 8%, The Wine Society )Saar Kabinett at its light and most pristine, this charming, floral, medium sweet Riesling is very delicate on the nose and tongue, with notes of apple and stone fruit, crunchy, Granny Smith acidity and all the fruit you’d expect from a warm vintage like 2011. Max von Kunow has taken over from his father, Eberhard, and there is a perceptible shift here towards a slightly drier style, but the quality of the wines remains as high as ever.
2010 Biondi Cisterna Fuori IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 13.5%, Vino Passione )Ciro Biondi’s new single vineyard Etna Rosso, bottled as an IGT due to a mix-up with this year’s paperwork, is still a baby – but already the attractive, lifted red fruit is approachable, and the tannins are muscular but refined. There’s a gorgeous lemon-candy/salty finish, along with slightly nervy acidity that should ensure a bright future. One to cellar for a couple of years, at least.
2009 Scilio Alta Quota Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 14%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )Salvatore Scilio has one of the few organically certified estates on Mount Etna, and Alta Quota is his premium expression of Nerello Mascalese. The balance between acidity and structure is impressive, and the muscular, ripe fruit has a herby, rosemary scent running through it. Superbly elegant, and feels like one for the long haul.
2009 Fattorie Romeo del Castello di Chiara Vigo Allegracore Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 13%, Robin Woodhouse )Chiara Vigo has markedly changed the style of her wines in the last two vintages. Whereas her 2008 was overtly oak-influenced, and rather hefty, the 2009 is much more feminine, and fruit-forward. Obviously youthful on the nose, the earthy red fruit is fresh and attractive, with great minerality. Salvo Foti has been the oenologist here, since Vigo’s first vintage in 2008, however from 2011, Vigo will be going it alone. Organically produced.
2010 Le Passé Authentique, Producteurs de Plaimont, Saint-Mont, South-West France
( £9.99 down to £7.99, 13%, Waitrose )There aren’t many (any?) wines on supermarket shelves made from three such obscure varieties as Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu, but that’s only one reason for buying this wine, especially on a deal at £7.99. It’s crunchy, refreshing and unoaked with notes of pink grapefruit, apricot and lemon zest, with an underlying note of stony minerality. The wine lingers on the tongue like a haunting refrain.
2007 Benanti Rovitello Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( €13.50 Ex-cellar, 14%, Les Caves de Pyrene )Vinicola Benanti is one of the most established quality producers in the Mount Etna region. Their Rovitello vineyards are on the Northern slopes, and the slightly cooler ripening conditions are reflected in this elegant, mineral and smoky Nerello Mascalese/Nerello Capuccio blend.
2008 Benanti Pietramarina Etna Bianco Superiore, Etna, Sicily
( €16.50 Ex-cellar, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene )This wine has the kind of taut, fresh yet delicate feel that I associate with high altitude – and Etna Bianco Superiore wines can only be made in the commune of Milo, with Carricante grown between 900-1100m above sea level. This is superior by name, and by nature. Scents of white flowers and acacia lead to generous, rather sauvignon-like fruit. The finish is mineral and flinty with an attractive bitterness that makes it very thirst quenching and rather morish.
NV Le Petit Roy, 11ème année, Domaine Jean Royer, Rhône Valley
( £12.25, 14.5, Lea & Sandeman )French law means that this Vin de France can’t carry a vintage, but the words “11ème année” are a chunky hint. It’s basically a declassified Châteauneuf du Pape, made in a slightly (and I mean slightly) lighter style. Given the high prices of CNDP these days, this is a great way to taste a stylish, full-throated blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre at a more than reasonable price. Spicy and savoury with medium weight tannins, hints of rosemary and thyme and a core of sweet raspberry and bramble fruit. Perfect autumn drinking.
2006 Parcel Series Riesling, Eden Valley
( £6.99, 12.5%, Majestic )A 92 point wine for only £6.99? You betcha. I can’t believe that this mature parcel of Eden Valley Riesling is so cheap. Sourced from McWilliams (better known for their aged Semillons), this is a delicously developed wine, showing classic flavours of lime and toast. It’s fresh, beautifully balanced and complex, with amazing length on the palate. Get on line, drive to your local Majestic, do whatever it takes, but make sure you buy this stunning wine.
2009 Vivera Martinella Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 13.5%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )A smoky, slightly vegetal aroma sets the stage for this terrific Etna Rosso. The red fruit is sweet and focused, and there’s a note of bitter cocoa, or cocoa nibs, that for me seems utterly typical of Nerello Mascalese. The tannins are refined and nicely balanced with the mineral finish. Organically produced.
2009 Nicosia Fonda Filara Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( £11, 13%, The Wine Society )Nicosia are making some of the best value Etna Rosso available, and this is a terrific effort. Sweet, red fruit and herbal notes are underpinned by a seductive texture, fine-grained tannins and a fresh, saline finish. This is a steal at £10.95