91

2010 Negroamaro Rosso Filimei, L'Astore Masseria, Puglia

( £14.95, 13.5%, Berry Bros & Rudd )

Negroamaro is often dismissed in northern Italy as a southern grape that lacks finesse, but it is capable of a delicacy and freshness that wouldn’t look out of place in a Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo if it’s sensitively handled. This is a case in point, an unoaaked, cherry stone and raspberry-scented red with notes of wild herbs and a nip of tannin. It’s light-bodied, too, especially by the standards of some beefy Puglian reds. A delight.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Negroamaro
91

2012 Villa Maria Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Awatere Valley, Marlborough

( £13.99 down to £7.86, 13%, Sainsbury's )

The cooler Awatere Valley is producing someof Marlborough’s most distinctive Sauvignons at the moment, lighter and fresher in style than those of the neighbouring Wairau Valley. This is a very elgant Kiwi number, which wouldn’t look out of place in the Loire, with tangy elderflower and citrsu fruit notes and a fine, stony finish. Very poised, very self-assured. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, White, Sauvignon Blanc
92

2006 Taste the Difference Hunter Valley Semillon

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 10.5%, Sainsbury's )

Thsi has been on the shelves for a while at JS, which suggests that (baffling though it is to me) it isn’t selling. This is the weekend to rectify that, because it’s an amazing wine at the price. Light-bodied, in classic Hunter style, with notes of toast and lemon sherbet and a tangy finish from early picked grapes. Essence of the Hunter. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Australia, White, Semillon
93

NV Sainsbury's Blanc de Noirs Champagne

( £20.99 down to £15.74, 12%, Sainsbury's )

Well, that’s my Christmas Party fizz taken care of. This is outrageously good value, a superb own-label Champagne that ranks with the very best buys in the high street right now. It’s a toasty, bottle-aged blend of mostly Pinot Meunier with 40% Pinot Noir and it’s singing at the top of its voice. Small bubbles, great length, richness and complexity, with lots of extra weight from 30% reserve wines. Buy, buy, buy. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Sparkling, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir
92

2010 Domaine Joly Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy

( £29.99 down to £24.49, 13%, Sainsbury's )

If you feel like treating your nearest and dearest (or just yourself) on Christmas Day, I’d buy a bottle of this very smart white Burgundy from one of the best vintages of the last 50 years. Focused and rich, with lovely oak integration, mealy, buttery notes and a foundation of minerally, limestone-related acidity. The wine is great now, but will happily sit in your wine rack for another five years or more. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay
92

2010 Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage, Les Meysonniers, Rhône Valley

( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Sainsbury's )

The enfant terrible of the Rhône is at the top of his form right now, even on wines from lesser appellations, such as Crozes-Hermitage. This has classic Syrah aromas of tapenade and smoked meat, allied to freshness, brightness and length. It’s organic, its unoaked and it’s truly delicious. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Syrah/Shiraz
92

2009 Mayu Syrah Reserva, Elquí Valley

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )

The coastal region of Elquí, close to the edge of the Atacama desert, is one of the most exciting in the world. And the wines from this Italian-influenced winery are leading the way. This has the cool climate pepperiness of Syrah (the Pacific is not far away) with notes of raspberry, tomato leaf and clove spice. Close your eyes and you could be drinking something very grand from the Rhône Valley. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Chile, Red, Syrah/Shiraz
93

NV Hidalgo Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana, Jerez

( £12.99 down to £9.74, 15%, Sainsbury's )

A bottle of my favourite Manzanilla for less than a tenner? Sign me up. This aged style from coastal Sanlúcar de Barrameda is an Andalucian classic. Rich and savoury, with yeasty, baking dough aromas, intense, salty, tangy flavours and a finish that goes on for so long it could outsell Viagra. An incredible wine at a bargain price. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Spain, Fortified, Palomino Fino
91

2010 Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy

( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Waitrose )

Drouhin is one of my favourite Burgundy négociants, equally adept at producing reds and whites. There may be some 2009 of this wine in the stores (as there is on line) but both recent vintages are superb. This is light, graceful and fragrant with fresh, crunchy acidity, a touch of minerality and balanced, nuanced red fruits’ flavours. Very impressive for a “mere” village wine. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
91

2004 Viña Mara Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta

( £13.79, 14%, Tesco )

Mature Rioja is one of my favourite wines, especially from a top vintage like 2004. This pure Tempranillo from the ever-reliable Barón de Ley winery will appeal to lovers of traditional Rioja, even though it is a varietal, rather than a blend with Garnacha. It’s savoury and sweet, with supple wild strawberry and game-like flavours, lovely vanilla oak and a complex, nuanced finish. At its best with lamb, but it’s a very versatile red. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Red, Tempranillo
92

2010 Biondi Cisterna Fuori IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13.5%, Vino Passione )

Ciro Biondi’s new single vineyard Etna Rosso, bottled as an IGT due to a mix-up with this year’s paperwork, is still a baby – but already the attractive, lifted red fruit is approachable, and the tannins are muscular but refined. There’s a gorgeous lemon-candy/salty finish, along with slightly nervy acidity that should ensure a bright future. One to cellar for a couple of years, at least.

Drinking window: 2014-2024Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
94

2009 Scilio Alta Quota Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 14%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

Salvatore Scilio has one of the few organically certified estates on Mount Etna, and Alta Quota is his premium expression of Nerello Mascalese. The balance between acidity and structure is impressive, and the muscular, ripe fruit has a herby, rosemary scent running through it. Superbly elegant, and feels like one for the long haul.

Drinking window: 2012-2022Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Mascalese