90

2012 Innocent Bystander Syrah, Yarra Valley, Victoria

( N/A, 13%, Liberty Wines )

Phil Sexton’s Yarra Valley winery is one of the most innovative in the region. It’s got a lot of tourist appeal, but it’s wines are deadly serious, too. This is a typically elegant, refined red, with fine-grained tannins, subtle pepper spice and plush raspberry and blueberry flavours and a minerally, refreshing finish.

Drinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Australia, Red, Syrah/Shiraz
90

2010 Seméli Reserve, Nemea

( £10.95, 14%, The Wine Society )

It’s not the easiest grape in the world to love (those tannins can be a little firm, like a Greek version of the Portuguese Baga grape) but Agiorgitiko is that country’s best variety. This is a very fruity example, but it’s still got backbone and acidity behind the chalky red cherry and pomegranate flavours. Make sure you eat this with robust food or cheese.

Drinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Greece, Red, Agiorgitiko
90

2013 Le Grand Cros, L'Esprit de Provence, Côtes de Provence, Provence

( £11.49, 13.5%, Noel Young Wines )

A pale coloured Provençal blend of Syrah and Grenache that’s just the thing for summer, this has more weight and concentration than many examples of an increasingly popular style. Raspberry fruit, bright acidity and a whiff of Mediterranean herbs all add to the sense of balance here. 

Drinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, Rose, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz
92

2013 Attis, Albariño, Rías Baixas

( £14.49, 12.5%, www.ralphswinecafe.com )

Made in a pithy style, this tasty Albariño comes from the Val do Salnés sub-region. Pear, quince and white pepper notes are deftly combined on the palate, supporting good texture and concentration. Tangy and refreshing on the finish, with notes of lemon peel and oyster shell. 

Drinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Albariño
91

2014 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

( N/A, 13.5% )

Is Cloudy Bay finally back on form after several lacklustre vintages? So it would appear from this latest release. It’s still a little pricey for what it is, but it’s appealingly fresh and refined, with subtle nettle and gooseberry fruit, a hint of struck match and a long, tapering finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Sauvignon Blanc
93

2011 Domaine Laroche, Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaudevey, Burgundy

( £19.69, 12.5%, www.thefinewinecompany.co.uk )

I’ve been very critical of the 2011 vintage in Chablis (because of a root vegetable-like taint called geosmin that I find on too many of the wines) but this is a welcome exception to the rule, a clean, appealingly developed Chardonnay from an excellent Premier Cru. There’s a touch of oak on this wine, but it’s steered by fruit. Honey, pear and aniseed spice are nicely combined on the palate. 

Drinking window: 2014-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay